• ODT Gun Show & Swap Meet - May 4, 2024! - Click here for info

Number of Rounds When Pressure Testing *Modern* 6.5x55 Swede

nicholas_wb

Default rank <300 posts Supporter
Tracker
8   0
Joined
Jul 3, 2023
Messages
205
Reaction score
107
Location
Hartwell, GA
I recently purchased a new Tikka T3x in 6.5 Swede and plan on getting everything I can out of the cartridge. As anyone who's familiar with 6.5 Swede knows, there are really two different types of 6.5 Swede load data. The first, and more prevalent, is load data for older Mauser rifles chambered in 6.5 Swede. These loads are pretty anemic compared to the second load. The second type is for modern rifles like my Tikka T3x in 6.5 Swede, which outperforms 6.5 Creedmoor in some cases. In this thread, I'm only discussing modern load data - so don't use any of this load data for your Mauser rifles.

Relevant components are Lapua brass, 6.5 127 gr Barnes LRX bullets, LR primers, and H4350. The load data I'm using is from an older Barnes manual that a Barnes rep was nice enough to photocopy and email to me - this data is not in the current Barnes manual so any cross-referencing you might do in the current Barnes manual will be showing Mauser data as Barnes does not currently produce modern 6.5 Swede data.

I plan on taking this slow, but not inefficiently. I plan on starting at the min powder point (42.0 of H4350 and going in half-grain increments until either at 45.0 - a grain below max charge - or pressure signs dictate otherwise). I plan on stopping a grain short of max charge as I've heard within the industry that powder manufacturers get their powders to be more efficient over time - and I would suspect that 45.0 grains of H4350 from 30 years ago is not as powerful as 45.0 grains of H4350 produced today). That's a personal preference on my part, do whatever you want.

As a brief logistical note, I live 45 minutes from my rifle range - where I cannot set up my reloading gear. I go to the range every couple weeks, so I don't mind breaking this up into a few trips but I'd like to minimize the time it takes to do this. Note that, from 42.0 to 45.0 with half-grain increments, I've got 8 potential loadings with expensive bullets and even more expensive brass. Normally, I'd do ten rounds per loading but that's $200 in just load development. I want to test (1) for pressure signs and (2) for accuracy, with velocity being a non-factor as I won't chrono anything until I know what load is most accurate.

To the meat of the question here, how many bullets per loading would you feel comfortable doing in my situation?

I've considered doing like 2 rounds per loading just to pressure test, then testing for accuracy in case I run into pressure early - but I'm well within book data here so that's more or less giving me an insurance policy that I can truly start load development at higher than min velocities. I'm open to ideas far and wide here.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3006.jpg
    IMG_3006.jpg
    138.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_3007.jpg
    IMG_3007.jpg
    149 KB · Views: 14
Tough question and it depends,
either you get lucky and find the node in a few or you'll end up doing it all over again.
In answer to your question 5 per string and all of them on a chrono and node will show up.
Some guy use to tell me "cry once and buy once or by twice and cry twice" I just assume do it once.
I shoot a 6.5 with a 140 vld and does just fine sub moa.
 
You may want to try a few different bullets. Every rifle I load for seems to like a bullet that I did not want to use when considering the barrel’s twist rate. IE: my 7mm-08 shoots the Speer 160 flat base best, and does a horrible job with all of the Hornady 139-154 SST and Interlock bullets.

I would Google around for data from derived by someone else’s ambitions - previously with the same gun - and start there. “Things” tend to get unpredictable when searching for the absolute max.

Speer usually is not afraid to give out hot load data; the 140 grain data should be a good reference point.

 
You may want to try a few different bullets. Every rifle I load for seems to like a bullet that I did not want to use when considering the barrel’s twist rate. IE: my 7mm-08 shoots the Speer 160 flat base best, and does a horrible job with all of the Hornady 139-154 SST and Interlock bullets.

I would Google around for data from derived by someone else’s ambitions - previously with the same gun - and start there. “Things” tend to get unpredictable when searching for the absolute max.

Speer usually is not afraid to give out hot load data; the 140 grain data should be a good reference point.

So, for lack of a better term, the Barnes 127 gr is my 'priority load' but it's not my only load. The Barnes is just what I'm using my Lapua brass on. I also have Nosler 142 grain Long-Range Accubonds that I plan on loading with PRVI brass. Speer's data is convenient, but I really want to use all copper bullets.
 
My suggestion: Get some additional, less expensive brass and similar weight/ballistic co-efficient, cheaper bullets.

Do a careful job of brass prep on the cheaper brass: Clean, size, chamfer, uniform the primer holes. Weigh the Lapua brass. Weigh the cheaper brass and pick cases that are consistent and close to the weight of the Lapua brass.

Use the cheap brass and cheap bullets to develop an understanding of powder weight/velocity for your loads. It's not going to be a perfect representation of what the Lapua / Barnes combo will do, but it will give you a sense of powder increments vs. velocity, and where you'll be approaching max pressure limits.

Once you understand those loads, you'll be a lot more comfortable loading the test rounds with the Lapua and Barnes. You'll still need to measure those, but they should be close.

Also, in my experience, it's rarely max load that delivers best accuracy.

You may find you can develop a load with the cheaper stuff that works as practice ammo. Or you may find it works better than the expensive stuff. Stranger things have happened.

Hope you'll post details of your adventure.
 
Had one more thought:

You should also consider testing reloads that have been once-fired through your Tikka and then neck sized only for the reloads. As long as they chamber easily, and accuracy holds up, you'll get a lot more life out of that expensive brass.
 
My suggestion: Get some additional, less expensive brass and similar weight/ballistic co-efficient, cheaper bullets.

Do a careful job of brass prep on the cheaper brass: Clean, size, chamfer, uniform the primer holes. Weigh the Lapua brass. Weigh the cheaper brass and pick cases that are consistent and close to the weight of the Lapua brass.

Use the cheap brass and cheap bullets to develop an understanding of powder weight/velocity for your loads. It's not going to be a perfect representation of what the Lapua / Barnes combo will do, but it will give you a sense of powder increments vs. velocity, and where you'll be approaching max pressure limits.

Once you understand those loads, you'll be a lot more comfortable loading the test rounds with the Lapua and Barnes. You'll still need to measure those, but they should be close.

Also, in my experience, it's rarely max load that delivers best accuracy.

You may find you can develop a load with the cheaper stuff that works as practice ammo. Or you may find it works better than the expensive stuff. Stranger things have happened.

Hope you'll post details of your adventure.
Now this is a good idea!

I might splurge a bit and just use the Barnes bullets with the inexpensive (relatively speaking, I'm not exactly in .223 price ranges anymore) brass but the Lapua brass is what's killing the budget anyways. At the time I've posted this, Lapua brass is $1.25/piece and I'm hesitant to shoot it more than 3-4 times given the pressures - even if they're book loads and the Europeans push this round to similar velocities. The Barnes rounds can be had for less than a $1/round and the only comparable bullet (all-copper, 123-130 grain bullet) is made by Maker and currently out of stock. I've been extra careful on brass prep for this whole process anyways so the extra prep won't be an issue.

Also, I've managed to find some early 2010's era forum discussions where guys were using similar weights of H4350 so I'm mildly more comfortable starting maybe a grain or a grain and half above starting weights - granted, I might still start there just to be safe.
 
My suggestion: Get some additional, less expensive brass and similar weight/ballistic co-efficient, cheaper bullets.

Do a careful job of brass prep on the cheaper brass: Clean, size, chamfer, uniform the primer holes. Weigh the Lapua brass. Weigh the cheaper brass and pick cases that are consistent and close to the weight of the Lapua brass.

Use the cheap brass and cheap bullets to develop an understanding of powder weight/velocity for your loads. It's not going to be a perfect representation of what the Lapua / Barnes combo will do, but it will give you a sense of powder increments vs. velocity, and where you'll be approaching max pressure limits.

Once you understand those loads, you'll be a lot more comfortable loading the test rounds with the Lapua and Barnes. You'll still need to measure those, but they should be close.

Also, in my experience, it's rarely max load that delivers best accuracy.

You may find you can develop a load with the cheaper stuff that works as practice ammo. Or you may find it works better than the expensive stuff. Stranger things have happened.

Hope you'll post details of your adventure.
100% right,
All though that one case that never delivers at max was My 6.5 creedmore absolutely loved about 8/10ths over max with 4350 and accurate to but after about 2/3 reloads brass bulged/donut'd so that's my 1 rare unicorn.
I backed it down and got close enough to live with it at 600yds.
 
Your velocities will tell you much more about what load will be accurate at distance. 5 rounds in .3 increments. Find a spot where the velocity curve flattens out (node). Check for pressure signs along the way. Then fiddle with seating depth. You can do your entire load development in 2 trips. Also, laupa brass when annealed, will last damn near forever. 10 or 15 loadings isn't unheard of.
 
Back
Top Bottom