Painting my Truck

[Willy Leadwell]

Well my refund is coming in and I want to paint my truck, so do y'all recommend anybody and do any of y'all do this sort of work?

If so whats your pricing? Or whats the pricing of your recommendation?

Thanks Sniper22.

He is right, I do have the best prices in the business because I am a production shop specializing in inexpensive paint jobs. What I would recommend would really depend on what you are looking to spend. Our average customer spends around $500-$600, but can range between $350 and $1500 or so. If you are looking to spend more than that, I would recommend going to a more traditional body shop for a collision type of repaint instead of a production repaint. Being in the business of inexpensive paint jobs I will be the first to tell you that you get what you pay for. Even though I personally feel we offer a much better value than going to Maaco. On the other hand, I have friends that start paint jobs somewhere around $7500, but they generally do more restoration/show quality work. The devil is in the details when it comes to paint jobs. $500 doesn't buy you extreme attention to detail, but it will get you a very decent paint job that is warrantied for several years.

I'm on a bit of a hiatus, my wife had a baby a week ago and he's in the NICU over at Scottish Rite. I have a really good team keeping things going at my shop while I'm away, which may be a while as we expect our NICU stay to be several months. If are interested, I will contact them and make sure you get the ODT treatment/price.

 

[Willy Leadwell]

Tax season is our busiest time of the year. You'd be surprised how many people are thinking exactly like you are right now.

https://www.facebook.com/SpraygloConyers

 

[FrogHunter]

I painted a dually last week.. 3 coats of base and 4 of clear for about $400 including cut and polish.

That's a damn good price dude.

 

[Willy Leadwell]

I painted a dually last week.. 3 coats of base and 4 of clear for about $400 including cut and polish.

I'm assuming that's cost of materials and you did it yourself?

 

[Butshot]

Southside Body Shop on 42 just past 138 in Stockbridge does great work. He painted my S2000 and it looks like factory. Owner's name is James.

 

[Nob0dy]

Thanks Sniper22.

He is right, I do have the best prices in the business because I am a production shop specializing in inexpensive paint jobs. What I would recommend would really depend on what you are looking to spend. Our average customer spends around $500-$600, but can range between $350 and $1500 or so. If you are looking to spend more than that, I would recommend going to a more traditional body shop for a collision type of repaint instead of a production repaint. Being in the business of inexpensive paint jobs I will be the first to tell you that you get what you pay for. Even though I personally feel we offer a much better value than going to Maaco. On the other hand, I have friends that start paint jobs somewhere around $7500, but they generally do more restoration/show quality work. The devil is in the details when it comes to paint jobs. $500 doesn't buy you extreme attention to detail, but it will get you a very decent paint job that is warrantied for several years.

I'm on a bit of a hiatus, my wife had a baby a week ago and he's in the NICU over at Scottish Rite. I have a really good team keeping things going at my shop while I'm away, which may be a while as we expect our NICU stay to be several months. If are interested, I will contact them and make sure you get the ODT treatment/price.

Thanks, I would maybe stay with the Flat Gray since it will be a work truck, would that make a difference?

 

[Blue Marlin]

I'm assuming that's cost of materials and you did it yourself?

Yeah… I had a bunch of stuff already but that's what I figure it costs in materials alone… From bodywork filler, tape, paper, primer, paint, clear, wetsand, buffer, pads, polish, etc… and unfortunately there are no shortcuts if you want a decent paint job.

 

[Willy Leadwell]

Thanks, I would maybe stay with the Flat Gray since it will be a work truck, would that make a difference?

Color doesn't really make a difference in price. The condition of the existing surface and the type of paint used is where the cost can vary. The wear on yours is pretty typical and will need a fair deal of preparation to smooth it out. I don't like to throw prices out without seeing something in person, but just to ballpark it for you, I'd say you could spend somewhere between $650 and $1000 depending on the type of material you want and the desired outcome. Basecoat/clearcoat is pretty much the industry standard, but that's really only because factories use it, so collision repair shops do as well to replicate the factory appearance & durability. It's also good for high end paint jobs that are metallic colors because single stage metallics can't be cut & polished to a showroom shine. We use mostly single stage polyurethane. Single stage is making a big comeback recently because the quality has greatly improved over the single stage from the old lacquer and enamel days, yet it is substantially more affordable. It's also a lot more forgiving than basecoat so it's great for older vehicles with fairly rough surfaces, like yours.

 

[BenStark]

Color doesn't really make a difference in price. The condition of the existing surface and the type of paint used is where the cost can vary. The wear on yours is pretty typical and will need a fair deal of preparation to smooth it out. I don't like to throw prices out without seeing something in person, but just to ballpark it for you, I'd say you could spend somewhere between $650 and $1000 depending on the type of material you want and the desired outcome. Basecoat/clearcoat is pretty much the industry standard, but that's really only because factories use it, so collision repair shops do as well to replicate the factory appearance & durability. It's also good for high end paint jobs that are metallic colors because single stage metallics can't be cut & polished to a showroom shine. We use mostly single stage polyurethane. Single stage is making a big comeback recently because the quality has greatly improved over the single stage from the old lacquer and enamel days, yet it is substantially more affordable. It's also a lot more forgiving than basecoat so it's great for older vehicles with fairly rough surfaces, like yours.

I won't speak for ijasond, but with my minimal (2 summers) amount of body shop experience, being a work truck, I would recommend the single stage. Clear is great until you break through it. Then it's done. Single stage can be cut and buffed pretty much until you run out of paint. For a budget paint job, the quality over time will probably be close to what you will get with a base/clear, and instead of peeling clear, you're going to get fading paint which doesn't look nearly as bad.

ijasond, I am sorry to hear about your new baby being in the NICU. I will pray for you and your family. If there is anything I can do to help please let me know.