I reload in my garage that stays open all the time. I have an issue with rust. I am wanting to either clean up everything in my tumbler or replace. I just dont know if covering my press when not using would help or if I should wipe with something.
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Prevent rust on reloading equipment.
- Thread starter CAMSDADDY
- Start date
Any oil on exposed metal will go a long way. Motor oil, atf, gun oil, or grease. Keep it off rotation parts of a powder thrower, inside dies and side powder hoppers and tricklers. Petroleum products kill primers and powder. Otherwise hit it with whatever is cheap and easy and do it often, particularly in summer.
Covering won't stop the rusting unless the cover is mostly airtight. And wipe some preservative on it first. I like Birchwood Casey Barricade.
I'd seriously consider closing in, insulting, and climate control the garage or workspace. You can try and grease and cover stuff all you want but there's still small internal parts like springs that are going to be exposed to condensation and rust. You can do the work and spend a little money now, or just keep battling rust for ever in a workspace that's less enjoyable.
I reload in my garage too. I use a silicone cloth with a spray of ballistol about once a year and wipe down the steel parts. I’ve had no issues.
Maybe wear latex gloves while you load? Salt/sweat from your hands could be making it worse.
Maybe wear latex gloves while you load? Salt/sweat from your hands could be making it worse.
So this is an issue I suspect I'll have to deal with soon.
I used to have a woodworking workshop that had a LOT of surfaces that might end up rusted, and what I used was a Bostick product named Dri-Cote. It looks like they changed the name (and maybe the formulation) but it was a really good sealant for metal surfaces. It was a VERY thin coating, but I'm not sure I'd trust it on die internals or anything where 1/1000in tolerances are important, but die threads, calipers etc were well-protected.
It's said that it's a lubricant, but once it's dry, I think the greatest point is that it's a sealant.
This is it now - but you can find it far cheaper than Amazon prices.
Bostik BladeCote (formerly DriCote)
I used to have a woodworking workshop that had a LOT of surfaces that might end up rusted, and what I used was a Bostick product named Dri-Cote. It looks like they changed the name (and maybe the formulation) but it was a really good sealant for metal surfaces. It was a VERY thin coating, but I'm not sure I'd trust it on die internals or anything where 1/1000in tolerances are important, but die threads, calipers etc were well-protected.
It's said that it's a lubricant, but once it's dry, I think the greatest point is that it's a sealant.
This is it now - but you can find it far cheaper than Amazon prices.
Bostik BladeCote (formerly DriCote)
