• ODT Gun Show & Swap Meet - May 4, 2024! - Click here for info

The dirty secret left out by all the encouraging reloaders!!!

It's definitely a whole new chapter for firearms for me. Suppressors and searching for hosts was my last new interest, reloading seems to have endless possibilities.
 
Yep. Lee factory sizing die. Run it as the last step.
Edit. It is especially helpful if you reload brass fired from not fully supported chambers in semi-auto pistols. Regular sizing die dies not take all of the bulge out. Lee factory sizing die does.

When you run it through the resizing die when the old primer is knocked out, doesn't that do the trick for resizing the brass correctly back to factory? Do you run it again (without the primer knockout pin) after you finish the bullet?
 
When you run it through the resizing die when the old primer is knocked out, doesn't that do the trick for resizing the brass correctly back to factory? Do you run it again (without the primer knockout pin) after you finish the bullet?

No, the die we're talking about is the last die, the die you're talking about is the first die.
(These are found in Lee 4 die sets.)

This last die does a QA check, kind of like dropping the round in a chamber gauge to make sure it'll run fine when it is it's turn to feed. Except that it kind of resizes the whole round, not just the brass portion.

They guarantee that if you use this die the round will feed in your firearm, that it will be factory sized.
(I reckon there's at least a few ways to bruise a piece of brass in the process after it's resized and decapped. I know I've ruined a few! :becky:)
 
When you run it through the resizing die when the old primer is knocked out, doesn't that do the trick for resizing the brass correctly back to factory? Do you run it again (without the primer knockout pin) after you finish the bullet?

I think what he is referring to is a bulge buster. Lee and Redding make these, they are full length resizing dies removing the bulge from guppy belly cases made from the early glocks. You push the brass completely through the die exiting from the other side. I think these were only made for the 40's. (Not 100% sure)
Normally if you decap and resize in one step there is no need to resize again. Unless you are working on shouldered brass (Rifle shells). I reload brass for my ar10 and everyone goes though a case gage (go no go). Don't want one firing out of battery. For straight cased pistol, one out of 100 are checked if I full length resize. I might be wrong but it looks like Redding are the tightest dies out there.
 
Regular carbide sizing dies that I use (RCBS, Dillon) have a radius cut out on the bottom, to help feed the empty case into the die. Because of that the very bottom of the cartridge does not gets resized. Die is physically bigger on the bottom. Lee Factory sizing die seems to go the very bottom of the loaded cartridge and take that last bulge out.
It is usually not a problem, if you do not do that, but it can be in the guns with tighter chambers.

And yes, I became aware of Lee Factory sizing die when I was active on Glocktalk, many, many moons ago, back when we had just 5 or 6 forums. We had a few spirited threads about the need for it.
 
Ok, thanks guys. I usually spot check 1 out of every 50 using calipers to make sure the rounds are coming out correctly. Just doing handgun rounds currently. I use the lee carbide resizing die and don't have the extra finished round resizer die.
 
If you have no problem with your ammo, no need for the factory sizing die. Is it nice to do? Yes. Would I spend money on one? Only if I need it.
 
A
If you have no problem with your ammo, no need for the factory sizing die. Is it nice to do? Yes. Would I spend money on one? Only if I need it.

Absolutely....nice to have if needed. I would spend the money on a case gage. Do you need it for a straight wall case, no, but it sure is nice to know your rounds will fit.
IMHO
 
Back
Top Bottom