non of which are winning comps with perhaps the exception of Noveske whos 3 gun team uses rifled barrels. look at Kreiger, Obermeyer, Rock, Bartlein, Brux. they win matches, they cut rifle.
-
ODT Gun Show & Swap Meet - May 4, 2024! - Click here for info
10mm??? Who needs it when you have .40
- Thread starter zombienation
- Start date
non of which are winning comps with perhaps the exception of Noveske whos 3 gun team uses rifled barrels. look at Kreiger, Obermeyer, Rock, Bartlein, Brux. they win matches, they cut rifle.
i'd carry a 10mm handgun if sig sauer would make a gun for it, but the gun choices are very slim when it comes to 10mm unfortunately, i shot a handgun in that caliber before and i think its better then 40 s&w but there has not been enough different firearms straight form the factory with 10mm option
Last edited:
The problem for us is; we can identify obvious signs of over-pressure on our brass but when there are none this does not mean it's not over pressure.
The labs use a barrel fixture with specialized equipment to record measurable PSI. Old school was CUP (copper unit) which yielded to PSI (more accurate?).
Using slower burning powders will help reduce given pressures. The loads you are working up hopefully have been lab tested and you're using that data to guide your loads. If not then you accept an added measure of risk.
Elmer Keith blew up several .44 Special revolvers working up his "hot loads" being the catalyst that allowed Remington to create the .44 magnum-Smith & Wesson to create the gun to shoot it (model 29).
Working to create a .40 S&W Magnum seems:
1). Unwise
2). Risky
3). A solution to a non-existent issue as we already have a .40 S&W Magnum. It's called 10mm.
I have used 800X powder for some incredible 40 loads. I stick with the load manual data, but I get more velocity than the book predicts. Blue Dot and HS-6 are also good. Your results are better than Hodgdon's own load data with a max charge.
As far as lead in polygonal barrel goes: there is a reason for all the negative opinions. Consider that the Glock manual does not say anything about not using lead. Correct me if I am mistaken. It is the people who have had bad results with lead in the Glock that have done the talking. Most folks want to shoot as cheaply as possible. So, if lead worked well, people would be using it.
I suppose that there may be some cast bullets that are hard enough and properly sized for the Glock but I have not ever found any. And, the search just isn't worth it. It is easier to buy the KKM, Lone Wolf, or Storm Lake barrel for lead, or to just shoot jacketed bullets.
The 10mm is capable of substantially more power than the 40. The 10mm case is designed to function at hi pressures in unsupported barrels. The brass at the base of the case is thicker.
If the cost was not a factor, the 10 is all I would want.
Side note: jacketed bullets always gave me higher velocities in the Glock barrels than cast lead. I always figured it was the rifling.
As far as lead in polygonal barrel goes: there is a reason for all the negative opinions. Consider that the Glock manual does not say anything about not using lead. Correct me if I am mistaken. It is the people who have had bad results with lead in the Glock that have done the talking. Most folks want to shoot as cheaply as possible. So, if lead worked well, people would be using it.
I suppose that there may be some cast bullets that are hard enough and properly sized for the Glock but I have not ever found any. And, the search just isn't worth it. It is easier to buy the KKM, Lone Wolf, or Storm Lake barrel for lead, or to just shoot jacketed bullets.
The 10mm is capable of substantially more power than the 40. The 10mm case is designed to function at hi pressures in unsupported barrels. The brass at the base of the case is thicker.
If the cost was not a factor, the 10 is all I would want.
Side note: jacketed bullets always gave me higher velocities in the Glock barrels than cast lead. I always figured it was the rifling.
Last edited:
If that Glock blows up, keep us updated with pics!
As for me, I'll stick with my S&W 1066 10mm.
As for me, I'll stick with my S&W 1066 10mm.
Nope, glock does specifically say not to use anything other than FMJ bullets.
Has anybody seen any non-jacketed commercially loaded autoloader ammo lately? I never heard anything about plated ammo being a problem though. I've never seen any that have been fired, does the process strip the plating?
Yea the rifling usually just punches through to the lead where it contacts with the bullet. I have used the Betty's before with good results
