glad to hear you got it off.... told you it had lots of play in it.... gee how'd I know that lol ..... been there too many times.... forget the murphy's it's fine for scrubbing down the hardwood floors now and then but don't put water on a gun stock.... it's ok to use if you wring the rag out really good.... gets dirt, sticky candy residue, or other lunch time messes but not any good to get the deep ground in dirt a military stock has..... use whatever is this weeks approved solvent... they change so fast I honestly can't keep up.. family business we get the solvents by the drum and I just grab a gallon when I need it...... use 0000 the finest steel wool and give it a good scrub.... esp. the stock stub and the insides of the forend and hand guard... they usually have coating of cosmoline still in there..... do it fast, no need to try and do any more than take off the surface crud... when done wet a clean rag with solvent and wipe down.... do this a couple times to get all the dirty residue off..... then let it dry for a day... then bed it to clean surfaces.... then put on the BLO.... but because of the low temps and wet weather I suggest you go to an art supply and get a small bottle of "cobalt drier".... what you do is pour into a small container the amount of BLO your going to use THIS DAY... tablespoon? and add about 2to3 drops of the drier..... and apply but be VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS AMOUNT OF DRIER ADDED ANY RAGS ETC. CAN/WILL SPONTANIOUS COMBUST.... been there done that.... thank god I had the trash container I use for flamables.... they were put in outside and away from everything.... since then I wrap all rags in paper towels wet it all good with water, put that wad into a big zip lock bag and fill it with water. the cobalt drier is super powerful and speeds the drying greatly.... most times 24 hours and its completely dry on a glass plate test. one of the things I developed and have used for nearly 40 years. some people suggest japan drier but honestly it sucks, cobalt is 10 times more powerful.
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Colbalt drier... thank you for that tip. When i used BLO (by itself), it seemed to never dry, although it makes a nice finish.
While on the subject, when do you think BLO / drier is better to use than other stock finishes, such as tung oil or Tru Oil?
Thanks for your insight.
While on the subject, when do you think BLO / drier is better to use than other stock finishes, such as tung oil or Tru Oil?
Thanks for your insight.
Tru-oil is the same thing as BLO with drier with a little tung oil thrown in.
Tung oil has natural driers and forms a more water proof film than BLO.
Practically speaking, other than the water proofing, there is no real difference in them, and it's a matter of preference, and how you want to work.
You will find that most woodworkers prefer Tung Oil, because it dries quicker on its own, and takes less coats than BLO. (builds faster)
BLO is the "standard" for stock finishes because that's all they had in grandpa's day, and of course we all want to do it the way gramps did it. If tung oil had been generally available Gramps would have used that.
Tung oil has natural driers and forms a more water proof film than BLO.
Practically speaking, other than the water proofing, there is no real difference in them, and it's a matter of preference, and how you want to work.
You will find that most woodworkers prefer Tung Oil, because it dries quicker on its own, and takes less coats than BLO. (builds faster)
BLO is the "standard" for stock finishes because that's all they had in grandpa's day, and of course we all want to do it the way gramps did it. If tung oil had been generally available Gramps would have used that.
LOL yeah right about it staying sticky forever..... think old fashion flypaper. just for your info BLO hasn't been boiled since about the time of the second world war..... they put it thru an artificial process and add their own choice of driers now..... the cobalt in the amount I told you is way more powerful of a drier..... if you put it into a can of BLO, next day or two you'll have one big lump of jello. you know turpentine is a gum much like linseed oil..... well for fun I once set up a half gallon of it using a tin drier. only took a few drops. driers are powerful and also dangerous chemicals to use.... got lots of knowledge on them but maybe this isn't something for public discussion.
when do I think BLO is better than other things...... other than the first coat on new raw wood and then only when cut 50/50 with turpentine to get deep penetration..... never. your the ones that wanted to use the traditional BLO like was used on the stocks in the first place. me I don't care anything about traditional..... I bought them they are now my guns..... they may get stacked on my funeral barge and burned along with my ex-wife and numerous girl friends LOL. I've spent a life time robbing mausers and enfields of their actions for custom rifles... love the 1914 and 1917 enfields both big and strong. as far as results go tung oil has BLO beat hands down as a wood finish. if your going to be doing much of this work build yourself a drying cabinet.... light bulb in the bottom and small vents at the top..... one light bulb will maintain 105 and near zero humidity. just keep the door closed and it drives the moisture up and out the vents. and that's in a nice cool dark corner of a shop. I use one all the time for rare and exotic woods... I turn fancy boxes out of the rarest and most beautiful woods...... some cost the same per ounce as silver.... think this way... if you were to buy your wife a $3,000. pair of emerald ear rings..... my boxes are what you'd put the ear rings in.... I buy the wood weigh it an tag it to the nearest gram, re-weigh it again every two months, when it stops losing weight it's dry. all woods should be done this way but people don't have the time now days. but they have the time when things go south on them and has to be re-done. long ago I learned to buy green wood for stocks and dry them my-self..... spend 200. and when dry it's a 3,000. stock blank.
hey been fun... nice polite group.... write to me if you have any other questions
when do I think BLO is better than other things...... other than the first coat on new raw wood and then only when cut 50/50 with turpentine to get deep penetration..... never. your the ones that wanted to use the traditional BLO like was used on the stocks in the first place. me I don't care anything about traditional..... I bought them they are now my guns..... they may get stacked on my funeral barge and burned along with my ex-wife and numerous girl friends LOL. I've spent a life time robbing mausers and enfields of their actions for custom rifles... love the 1914 and 1917 enfields both big and strong. as far as results go tung oil has BLO beat hands down as a wood finish. if your going to be doing much of this work build yourself a drying cabinet.... light bulb in the bottom and small vents at the top..... one light bulb will maintain 105 and near zero humidity. just keep the door closed and it drives the moisture up and out the vents. and that's in a nice cool dark corner of a shop. I use one all the time for rare and exotic woods... I turn fancy boxes out of the rarest and most beautiful woods...... some cost the same per ounce as silver.... think this way... if you were to buy your wife a $3,000. pair of emerald ear rings..... my boxes are what you'd put the ear rings in.... I buy the wood weigh it an tag it to the nearest gram, re-weigh it again every two months, when it stops losing weight it's dry. all woods should be done this way but people don't have the time now days. but they have the time when things go south on them and has to be re-done. long ago I learned to buy green wood for stocks and dry them my-self..... spend 200. and when dry it's a 3,000. stock blank.
hey been fun... nice polite group.... write to me if you have any other questions
It will turn a 55 gallon drum into a rocket! Stuff keeps working so you have to leave the bugs loose..if it hadn't hit the ceiling girder would have went through the roof. We use that as an anti bleed agent.
