.357 magnum loads

[1006]

I use a gas check on my 38-55 loads with Hunters Supply cast bullets—no lead in the barrel at all, at 1500fps. Gas checks work great to reduce leading in the barrel, but the bullet has to be the correct diameter or you will still get gas blow-by and a lot of lead.

In my experience, lead bullets are never as accurate as FMJ’s at magnum or rifle velocities.

 

[crowbusterL579]

I would use Unique for light cast bullet loads & either Win. 296 or H-110 for full power jacketed loads.

 

[richs]

I just got a .357 Magnum and looking to do some reloads. Currently I have around 225 shells (150 38 Spl and 75 .357) range pickups. I've discovered I can use the same powders (Titegroup and CFE Pistol) for both 38 and .357, and from what I've read, it seems to point to being able to use Small Pistol Primers. Are there any issues using normal recipes using these 2 components?
As for bullets, I haven't picked up any yet, what grain weight should I consider? I'l leaning to FMJ since I see little need to carry it since I have dedicated carry guns.

 

[1006]

Your powders do not need magnum primers, fmj’s are great for all but self defense in the 357. Jackets bullts are best for revolvers unless you like cleaning revolvers.

I like 125 grain bullets, but they all work, just keep it between 125 and 158 for simplicity’s sake. The 200grainers might hang out of the cylinder and prevent rotation of the cylinder-a lesson learned early on with my old 686.

 

[texasgunlover]

I have loaded maybe 3000 .357 rounds using Extreme 125 gr. FMJ and another 500 of their hollow points. I usually load just under the max for my rifle and they've been great.

One thing I have noticed: S&B (Sellier & Bellot) cases will not seat primers to the proper depth. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

[1006]

Run a primer pocket cleaner into them and see if you can’t get some hard to see microscopic grit out that is preventing the primer from seating.

I reload S&B 9mm and 45 without issue, have not tried their 357 cases.

 

[texasgunlover]

Run a primer pocket cleaner into them and see if you can’t get some hard to see microscopic grit out that is preventing the primer from seating.

I reload S&B 9mm and 45 without issue, have not tried their 357 cases.

Oh I reamed those babies out good, and it had no effect.

 

[summer44]

I have been loading for a .38spl and .357mag revolver for a while....but mostly using mouse fart loads for my model 12 airweight and low end 357 data for my 686. I find myself wanting to load some full power 357 loads...what bullet should i look at? i have been using 158gr plated berrys w/o a cannelure so far for plinking. for full power loads i ASSUME I need a bullet w/a cannelure for a proper roll crimp? thanks guys.

Speer 158 grain JSP on top of 15.8 grains of 2400, our of a 4'' revolver that will put you vel in the upper 1200s

 

[SpeedyR]

lots of good info here.

personally for full tilt magnum loads in 44 or 357, I like Hornady XTP bullets. Pick your weight (125 or 158gr in 357 and 240/300 in 44) and a good dose of H110/296 (one of the few powders that really are the same between the two brands).

One thing with H110- don't reduce the loads very much, check the manual and stick with the min and max loads they post. It doesn't react like most traditional powders. titegroup is another good powder for 357 if you have it around.

I usually load up a bunch of lighter loads for playing around (coated or cast or plated) and then have a few boxes of heavy loads for the times friends complain about the pistol not having enough juice. Or just to remind me of what it's capable of doing.

 

[Control for Smilers]

Are y'all using regular or mag primers with the h110/296? I think I will buy a can of that and order some 158gr zero JSPs and play about with some 4 inch guns. Might try a max load of cfe pistol with the same bullet out of a snub nosed 19. I am assuming the faster powder will be better in the shorty even if the velocity is lower, maybe all the powder will burn with a good crimp.