Could be a bad clutch, bad electric fan (allowing high pressure) bad expansion valve or orifice tube depending which one it has, could be a bad pressure switch .
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AC Auto experts please step in...I have a question.
- Thread starter spistols
- Start date
The ac clutch quits engaging on the compressor. Probably replace the compressor that has a new clutch on it
Is the clutch cycling? If so, how long does it stay engaged?
A lot of different possibilities here. Some things to check:
1. Does the engine fan come on when the A/C is turned on? It should. If not, then the A/C system can't get rid of the heat it pulls out of the cabin unless you're driving fast. So if the A/C doesn't work in stop and go traffic this could be the culprit.
2. On Subarus the A/C compressor is right on top of the engine. Is it cycling on and off? Typically when the A/C is on the compressor should run for 45 seconds to a minute, then cycle off. You'll be able to see the clutch engage and disengage. If it's not cycling on and off it could be low on charge, or a low pressure switch could be bad. Look for loose or disconnected wires.
3. Don't overlook the blend door actuator. These things are servo controlled now, and the actuator changes the blend door from cold air to hot air. My wife's car wouldn't blow cold air, even though the A/C was sweating a large amount of water. It turned out to be a bad blend door actuator. The A/C was working great, but the actuator was blending hot air with cold A/C air.
Lastly, why was the system recently evacuated and refilled? If the compressor was replaced due to failure did they replace the condenser as well? Modern condensers cannot be flushed, they must be replaced, and should be replaced if the compressor fails - because that's where the pieces end up.
Good luck with it.
1. Does the engine fan come on when the A/C is turned on? It should. If not, then the A/C system can't get rid of the heat it pulls out of the cabin unless you're driving fast. So if the A/C doesn't work in stop and go traffic this could be the culprit.
2. On Subarus the A/C compressor is right on top of the engine. Is it cycling on and off? Typically when the A/C is on the compressor should run for 45 seconds to a minute, then cycle off. You'll be able to see the clutch engage and disengage. If it's not cycling on and off it could be low on charge, or a low pressure switch could be bad. Look for loose or disconnected wires.
3. Don't overlook the blend door actuator. These things are servo controlled now, and the actuator changes the blend door from cold air to hot air. My wife's car wouldn't blow cold air, even though the A/C was sweating a large amount of water. It turned out to be a bad blend door actuator. The A/C was working great, but the actuator was blending hot air with cold A/C air.
Lastly, why was the system recently evacuated and refilled? If the compressor was replaced due to failure did they replace the condenser as well? Modern condensers cannot be flushed, they must be replaced, and should be replaced if the compressor fails - because that's where the pieces end up.
Good luck with it.
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EDIT:
<<<<<Works at a body shop with proper equipment and does most of his own service work.
There are a lot of "could be" The only way to know is to take it back to the shop for them to do a proper diagnosis. My 2007 Escape had several AC issues that had to be corrected one at a time. All were minor. If I would have guessed and thrown parts at the problem the AC I would have wasted time, and money.
<<<<<Works at a body shop with proper equipment and does most of his own service work.
There are a lot of "could be" The only way to know is to take it back to the shop for them to do a proper diagnosis. My 2007 Escape had several AC issues that had to be corrected one at a time. All were minor. If I would have guessed and thrown parts at the problem the AC I would have wasted time, and money.
Lots of good advice here and there are a bunch of possibilities of what could be wrong with your system. Without looking at the actual vehicle and getting the true facts of what is and is not happening when and under what circumstances….. it is almost impossible to diagnose one this way.
Bottom line is it really needs to be checked by a professional or at least a good mechanic that knows the systems and what to look for.
Sorry I could not give you a cure over the internet/phone/etc., Good luck !
(I’m always more than happy to answer whatever questions I can. So , don’t be afraid to ask advice ! )
(The above posts that I marked with a “like” are good places to start if you are trying to do this yourself.)
Bottom line is it really needs to be checked by a professional or at least a good mechanic that knows the systems and what to look for.
Sorry I could not give you a cure over the internet/phone/etc., Good luck !
(I’m always more than happy to answer whatever questions I can. So , don’t be afraid to ask advice ! )
(The above posts that I marked with a “like” are good places to start if you are trying to do this yourself.)
Could be the AC Clutch gap - see YouTube vid -
Got the car. Blows cold for about 15ish minutes than stops. Next day, blows cold again for a bit, then stops blowing cold. I am going to try the clutch spacing trick since it is fairly easy to do.
I removed the AC Compressor clutch and took out one shim, as noted in the Youtube video. I read reviews/comments on this video and there must have been at least 30 people with the identical problem and commented on how this fix helped the problem.
On another note, with the engine warmed up, and the AC on fan speed of 2, the AC Compressor clutch kicks in for @ 8-10 seconds, off for about the same and then on again, off again, for the 8-10 seconds. This was when parked in neutral (manual trans).
Normal/not normal?
On another note, with the engine warmed up, and the AC on fan speed of 2, the AC Compressor clutch kicks in for @ 8-10 seconds, off for about the same and then on again, off again, for the 8-10 seconds. This was when parked in neutral (manual trans).
Normal/not normal?
