subject dropped. I am not begging some dude that thinks he has the Lamborghini of guns to fix it and save him a ton of money. It's not even a HK.
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CETME gunsmith
- Thread starter avmtdan
- Start date
Thats good. Title of the thread is cetme gunsmith, not bring your hammer and learn how to bend up my toys while you learn. I never illuded this as being a lambourghini, and honestly, i doubt your uncanny ability to fix a pinto is going to translate well into the firearm realm. Ive never turned a key on a car that i thought might blow up in my face, so why hand a rifle to someone who has zero experience with it to let him tinker? Frankly, i wouldnt trust you to sit the right way on a toilet seat, because you think you know all and can fix all, you will get someone hurt. I work on planes for a living, and everyone i have ever met with your attitude ends up screwing up big time at some point in their career, and unfortunately iusually its not them that get hurt.
Good luck with your backyard hammer wielding business.
some things you can do to eliminate, or zero in on the issue(s).
-Is the stock hard to put on without the grip frame? if so, it could be just the tang on the frame.
-does the bolt carrier move freely without the bold head on? Put the carrier in without the bolt head (and fp and spring and locking piece), put the grip frame on and the stock. Is it still hard to pull the charging handle back? If so, then it's not a bolt gap issue and is more likely cocking tube alignment.
-any wear on the carrier on the tube part that might indicate an off parallel cocking tube? If so, the only way to fix it for certain is cut and reweld it. You might bend it, but not likely.
FTE could just be a weak extractor spring or worn extractor, but since you're getting FTL's, it could be a build issue. Are you using hk mags? (as in not aftermarket, but real G3 mags)
I have worked/played with HK's and roller locks for 30 years and have an uncanny attraction to the design
-Is the stock hard to put on without the grip frame? if so, it could be just the tang on the frame.
-does the bolt carrier move freely without the bold head on? Put the carrier in without the bolt head (and fp and spring and locking piece), put the grip frame on and the stock. Is it still hard to pull the charging handle back? If so, then it's not a bolt gap issue and is more likely cocking tube alignment.
-any wear on the carrier on the tube part that might indicate an off parallel cocking tube? If so, the only way to fix it for certain is cut and reweld it. You might bend it, but not likely.
FTE could just be a weak extractor spring or worn extractor, but since you're getting FTL's, it could be a build issue. Are you using hk mags? (as in not aftermarket, but real G3 mags)
I have worked/played with HK's and roller locks for 30 years and have an uncanny attraction to the design
Thanks for some direction Gardener, i havent tried to cock it without the bolt and will give it a try in the next few days. I have tried installing the stock without the grip and it goes on snug but not as bad. I will look for wear on the cocking tube. I have a mixed lot of mags, most are marked g3 and all have the 3 tabs where the mag meets the magwell.
Lol damn
X2 for the bad extractorsome things you can do to eliminate, or zero in on the issue(s).
-Is the stock hard to put on without the grip frame? if so, it could be just the tang on the frame.
-does the bolt carrier move freely without the bold head on? Put the carrier in without the bolt head (and fp and spring and locking piece), put the grip frame on and the stock. Is it still hard to pull the charging handle back? If so, then it's not a bolt gap issue and is more likely cocking tube alignment.
-any wear on the carrier on the tube part that might indicate an off parallel cocking tube? If so, the only way to fix it for certain is cut and reweld it. You might bend it, but not likely.
FTE could just be a weak extractor spring or worn extractor, but since you're getting FTL's, it could be a build issue. Are you using hk mags? (as in not aftermarket, but real G3 mags)
I have worked/played with HK's and roller locks for 30 years and have an uncanny attraction to the design
For whatever reasons these go fast (i think cause its held by cotter pin)
Order a new one for like 18 bucks and swap it out, prolly wouldnt hurt either way
Well, you can eliminate the mags. I can measure on my EBO SAR3 (Greek G3)to get the distance from the front and rear of the mag housing to the bottom of the carrier to see if there is a tolerance issue there.
I just remembered that to put the carrier in without the bolt head in place, you'll need to remove the locking lever from the side of the carrier. It's just a pin holding it in, so you can drift it out with a punch from the right side of the carrier. Press down on the rear of the locking lever to reduce spring tension. It's not so much that parts are gonna go flying, but it is a strong spring. when reassembling, put the spring end facing the rear to maximize tension on the locking lever. There is a tool for it, but if you have strong fingers, it's not too hard to realign the hole in the locking lever for the pin.
Whatever you say pal. You seem to know everyone's abilities so it shouldn't be hard to find someone to fix it. Good luck. From what I am reading they a pieces of **** right out of the box. Basically a cheap PTR. So maybe I don't want to fool with it. I have worked on a PTR and there no big differences.
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So i took the gun apart and checked it last night SOLGardener. The cocking block is worn pretty bad, so when you go to charge the gun it actually changes the geometry a bit and hangs. I took it out and cleaned the inside of the tube out, planning on polishing it some more to get it smoother and ordering a new block and handle. The tube itself is a little on the warped end, and I will try to straighten it up a bit.
I pulled the bolt apart and reinserted it, no issues with dragging. Bolt and upper tube looks good.
The last time i shot the gun was just after i had changed the stock set out from the wooden cetme to plastic g3. I noticed some difference between the recoil springs between the two and will swap them later if im still having lockback issues.
I messed with the trigger housing some, seems to be easier to get the stock on and off now, but still requires some slaps to remove.
Thanks for the ideas, will keep you posted.
I pulled the bolt apart and reinserted it, no issues with dragging. Bolt and upper tube looks good.
The last time i shot the gun was just after i had changed the stock set out from the wooden cetme to plastic g3. I noticed some difference between the recoil springs between the two and will swap them later if im still having lockback issues.
I messed with the trigger housing some, seems to be easier to get the stock on and off now, but still requires some slaps to remove.
Thanks for the ideas, will keep you posted.
