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Dodge Ram guys, need your help with something...

sinac84

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I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. I have noticed over the last week or 2 that my power door locks will intermittently not work. It seems like every couple of days and it'll act up, then it'll work fine for a while. I have to use my key fob to lock it, then, both the unlock and lock buttons will work. Obviously, a trip to the dealer is in order. Any idea's on what this could be or anyone with a 4th gen Ram run into this issue?

I made a short video showing the buttons not working.

[Broken External Image]:

If you don't have anything constructive to say about this then don't respond to this thread. I like my truck. Actually, I love my truck and I know thread's like these bring on tons of "haters" and I personally don't give 2 shats about what you think about Dodge trucks. I don't care about Chevy, Ford, Toyota's or Nissan's and if they are better, blah blah blah....
 
If you don't have anything constructive to say about this then don't respond to this thread. I like my truck. Actually, I love my truck and I know thread's like these bring on tons of "haters" and I personally don't give 2 shats about what you think about Dodge trucks. I don't care about Chevy, Ford, Toyota's or Nissan's and if they are better, blah blah blah....



IMG_1756.jpg


I love my truck too!!
 
My 2005 Chrysler town and country has same problem.....temporary fix for mine is to pull fuse for 10 seconds and then put it
back. Somehow it resets the computer.....for a while. Also works if you disconnect battery.

Whole family loves Chrysler products....Ram is a great truck.
 
There is probally a update for your ECU. You will need to take it to the dealer and have them flash it for you.
This is accurate. The newer Dodges as well as many other vehicles run on a data system instead of the switched 12v of the past. Instead of a reverse, +, or - triggered actuator, you have a sensor that responds to a VERY specific signal (360ohms for lock and 820ohms for unlock) that is carried on one wire. This same wire can also roll your windows up/down, turn lights on, pop the trunk, turn the radio on, start the car, ect... It is a very tempermental system. It is not better than the switched 12v systems of the past. It was another over-engineering idea from the Germans to save money on copper wire. But it is the evolution of the industry and its here to stay. The days of probing with a test light are over. unless you have a DMM and extensive understanding of data systems, take it to the dealer. Not knocking Dodge (my wife drives a 2010 Charger RT) just knocking the data system. Almost all makes are doing it now.
 
Its a sending issue to the computer. I believe there is a recall on that year. A fix for the issue is to run new wiring and install a new control module. If it comes down to that, send me a pm and I can take care of it. I have a mechanic garage in lawrenceville and I will be happy to take care of it.
 
Its a sending issue to the computer. I believe there is a recall on that year. A fix for the issue is to run new wiring and install a new control module. If it comes down to that, send me a pm and I can take care of it. I have a mechanic garage in lawrenceville and I will be happy to take care of it.

cool, I have a 5 year/70k bumper to bumper on the truck so I'll be taking it there. I appreciate the info from everyone and offer from you to help. They will supply me with a free rental if it has to stay a day or 2. I just wanted to know if it is something that needed to be handled immediately or if I could wait til my day off.
 
either an ECU/BCM issue that needs updating... or it could be the actuator itself that is going bad.... either way... to the dealership!! should still be under warrenty
 
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