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Finally am taking the reloading plunge..

You can neck size then trim. Magnum cartridges and those that are way overbore tend to stretch brass more than the aforementioned -06. Now that the case is fire formed it probably wont stretch the neck as bad on the second firing if neck sized. I don't have any experience with the Hornady brass but for what it's worth the info I have gleaned on the subject from the internet seems to indicate that Lapua brass is the way to go with this cartridge. You may want to check the length of the brass on some factory rounds just for giggles cause I have seen a couple of different lengths listed for this cartridge.
 
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I would much rather just necksize BHJ but I have once fired Hornady .338 brass that is all coming in at about 2.725 and according to the Lyman manual I have, it needs to be trimmed to 2.714... do I need to trim? Not to ask a stupid question but I am a newb and have only fired this case one time?? Thanks Casper

Yes, you need to trim. My research indicates a max case length of 2.724". If you exceed that, you could get increased pressures, depending on how your chamber is cut. Also, is that 2.725" length after the case has been sized? If not, expect the case to "grow" a bit after sizing. What kind of rifle is this being fired in?
 
You can neck size then trim. Magnum cartridges and those that are way overbore tend to stretch brass more than the aforementioned -06. Now that the case is fire formed it probably wont stretch the neck as bad on the second firing if neck sized. I don't have any experience with the Hornady brass but for what it's worth the info I have gleaned on the subject from the internet seems to indicate that Lapua brass is the way to go with this cartridge. You may want to check the length of the brass on some factory rounds just for giggles cause I have seen a couple of different lengths listed for this cartridge.
I appreciate your reply BHJ and will probably try to just necksize and trim to start out with. Rodger that on the Lapua brass but that is some pricey stuff! 260.00 for 100pcs. but I will get around to trying it. Casper
 
P1010801.jpg Thanks for the reply OldSchool, it's a Remington 700 LA Build with Sako style extractor, Fully bedded Mcmillan M40A1 stock, Douglas Premium Select Air Gauge 26" Barrel, Patriot Arms Bottom Metal with AICS mag, Badger Bolt Knob, Patriot Arms Fat Bastard Muzzle Break, Nightforce 20MOA Rail and Sightron 6 x24x50 Mrad scope.
Yes, you need to trim. My research indicates a max case length of 2.724". If you exceed that, you could get increased pressures, depending on how your chamber is cut. Also, is that 2.725" length after the case has been sized? If not, expect the case to "grow" a bit after sizing. What kind of rifle is this being fired in?
 
+1 on the Wilson Sinclair trimmer. It's very easy to use and is very accurate. I went for the micrometer adjustment model. That makes it very easy to accurately adjust the length. The extra $ was well worth it for the ease of use. Very nice looking rifle!!
 
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To add to what BHJ said earlier, reading! I have both the manuals he listed, and I value them for the research data using THEIR bullets. If you are new to the process and want to understand WHY you are doing what you are doing in reloading, I also recommend Lee #2 for technical discussion and Lyman #49 for history and depth of reloading options per caliber. I own all 4 and pull them out regularly for their individual merits. Read the front sections of at least 2 of them before starting, and try to pair up with an experienced local reloader for a few sessions to develop your reloading process.

Safe reloading!
 
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