Getting into .223 reloading...

[Chuckdog]

You need a trimmer if your going to be loading any type of bottleneck calibers.

Performance, but most importantly, safety makes it a necessity. Long cases not only
don't go into full battery reliably, but if they are forced closed, can and will drive
pressures literally through the roof. A long case can cause the bullet to be squeezed
much too tight when chambered.

I full length size all new brass and trim many new ones simply for uniformity, especially for precision
loads.

Yea, if loading for rifles, trimming is a necessary evil.

 

[RamRoddoc]

So finally got all my AR parts ordered and starting to look into reloading options for .223. I have some basic equipment and supplies, but looking at .223, it seems I'm going to need some more stuff.

First, dies...I understand that I'm going to need to full length resize, so will standard two die sets work? I need full length sizer and bullet seater, correct? Any other dies necessary?

Powder...I'm looking at Varget. Seems to get good results for people and fills the case well, which lowers chances of double charges.

Other equipment I don't have...a case trimmer? Am I to understand that if I full length resize .223 brass, trimming might become necessary?

I'm currently loading handgun calibers with a hand press, but I know a real press will come in handy due to the full length resizing and the quantities I'm going to want to do.

Anyway, any tips would be useful. Thanks.

If you are already loading for straight walled pistol then there are a few things more you will need.

The Lee dies are inexpensive and work well. The factory crimp die is real nice for semi-autos and I saw my groups tighten up a bit on my bolt gun too. Lee deluxe 3 die set is $30 at Midway and the factory crimp die is $12. You will need to full length re-size when using for multiple guns or semi-auto. You can just neck re-size if for one bolt/single shot gun. Also the shell holder is included with the Lee deluxe set.

An O-Ring/frame type of press is recommended. A simple single stage is fine and inexpensive. Midway has a Lee single stage for $58.

For necked cartridges, you will need to lube the cases to prevent a stuck case in the die. I use purchased plastic loading blocks to set the cases in then spray lube them. With a drill press and materials you can make your own loading blocks. I bought some spray lube a couple of years ago and have not used my old lube pad since. I even offered the old lube pad for free here in the reloading section during a discussion on lubing cases but there were no takers. Lubing is something you figure out on your own quickly. You want enough but not too much. You can tell if you didn't quite get enough lube when the press handle resists more than normal and case makes a bit more noise. I spray in 3 or 4 planes to cover the top 1/2-2/3's of the case.

You should be able to hold off on a case trimmer but after several re-loadings the cases will typically stretch and you will need to trim. Keep track of the number of trimmings. After 2-3 trimmings you will want to toss the case.

You have lots of choices for powder, pick one that meters well in your equipment and functions well in your gun. Semi-autos can be picky of the type of powder and the AR-15 type of gas operated weapon is no exception. If you don't have a decent powder meter you may want to invest in one. Chuckdog uses the Lee meter and has great results for a really inexpensive meter.

Once you are set up for rifle, you can re-load for another caliber for $30 or less. You ever price a box of .243 Winchester at Wally world or God help me some new cartridge like .223 WSSM.

As far as cost, bullets are where you can save or go bust. I picked up .224 55 grain bullets for around $70/1k at a gun show a while back. My brass was free and if you save yours and others who don't want it, your brass will soon be too. I guess someone starting out could buy fired brass. 3lbs of powder was running me less than $55. Primers cost me $20/1K. So a simple SWAG is realistically costing me around $145 for one thousand rounds of .223 REM FMJ rounds. Georgia arms currently sells their budget "Canned Heat" .223 Remington 55gr Full Metal Jacket 1000pk for $350.

So I can spend the $350 +tax and shoot 1,000 rounds of ammo or shoot nearly 3,000 rounds. The real beauty of it is I can create a loading specific to the rifle and then tailor it to popping ground pigs in the bean field or knocking down deer in the woods.

 

[dunkel]

Thanks for the input. I'm shopping the midwayusa.com site right now.

 

[ngcsugrad09]

Look for Hornady 55gr FMJs. When bought in bulk they are very cost effective and are some of the nicest FMJs you will find. Beware of short, 50-55gr hollow points with a wide tip as it may cause some feeding issues with the wrong OAL. I'd strongly urge you to go with FMJs to start with.

Varget is a good powder, but really shines for heavier bullets in the 60-80gr range. Consider something like H335, W748, Accurate 2230 or Benchmark.

For a press, you'll definitely want a bench mounted regular press or better. The sizing operation simply takes more effort than pistol cartridges, but buying good lube does help. I've really been impressed with the Dillon Case Lube. Buy good case lube, stuck dies with a .223 suck.

On brass, beware of once fired military brass that has crimped primer pockets. You'll need some kind of tool to remove the crimp. There are tools that range from simple hand reamers to bench mounted swagers. Learn to look for the crimps and sort your brass accordingly. The good thing with the crimps is you can almost guarantee it is once fired.

Learn the magazine length of the AR-15, as you'll want to load shorter than that (2.260" max OAL for the ammo).

Work up your loads with a rifle. Read up on pressure signs if you want to push maximum charges. If you've reloaded pistols (especially something like a 9mm, .40, .45 or .38spl) if you have pressure signs you're gun has probably blown up. With rifles, you can read the pressure signs as you work up a load to find what will work for you.

On primers, pretty much and of the small rifle, small rifle magnum or military grade small rifle primers will do. I've used them all and never had any ignition problems as long as they were properly seated.

Trimming is a necessary evil at some point. If you want to just load plinking ammo without the expectation of really good accuracy (it would be out of luck); size the brass and check the OAL length of the cases. You'll find about half of them will be within specs to load and the rest need trimming. You'll find trimming sucks with a hand crank for large batches of brass, but usually if you trim enough off you can get a couple firings without having to trim again. In my experience, for plinking or practice ammo it is acceptable to do this with an autoloader. If you're going to chase precision stuff brass prep takes on a whole new meaning.

 

[jglenn]

TAC is a great powder for the 223 Works very well with either the 55 or 63 gr FMJ bullets. meters liek a champ and is a bit cheaper than some powders

we run 25.5 gr in most all our normal loads for either bullet... 24.5 is a fine practice load for the 55 Gr

as noted the lee dies will work fine for sizing. we also use their factory crimp die. on our dillon 550

For bullets try Wideners. they currently have some of the 62 gr steel tips in stock

for a great little trimmer try the Possum hollow. Midway carries them... they trim off the sholder so you can mount it in a drill and just feed sized cases.

 

[kimchee45]

So finally got all my AR parts ordered and starting to look into reloading options for .223. I have some basic equipment and supplies, but looking at .223, it seems I'm going to need some more stuff.

First, dies...I understand that I'm going to need to full length resize, so will standard two die sets work? I need full length sizer and bullet seater, correct? Any other dies necessary?

Powder...I'm looking at Varget. Seems to get good results for people and fills the case well, which lowers chances of double charges.

Other equipment I don't have...a case trimmer? Am I to understand that if I full length resize .223 brass, trimming might become necessary?

I'm currently loading handgun calibers with a hand press, but I know a real press will come in handy due to the full length resizing and the quantities I'm going to want to do.

Anyway, any tips would be useful. Thanks.

dunkel,

A comment that reflects my concern about many things ...

Brevity is the soul of wit,
But information takes a lot more of it.

Know your source of information and go with it.


Chuckdog is a stalwart and is very reliable !

RamRoddoc is one you know, and, I would trust him with my life.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Rifle cartridges are brass, and must be resized after every firing.

The internal pressure is so intense that the brass must 'flow', and the only direction it can take is to elongate.
This, can only happen by thinning out the brass in the main body of the case.

Result is, the case elongates, the brass thins out in the body, primer pockets expand in a usually minor amount.

Now, how do you identify these possible problems ?

After firing, and sometimes only after tumbling, look at the body of the case.

See a shiny ring near the head of the case ?

I did once, and I had previously read thousands of words of scribes, and did this :
I ran a fine diameter tool with a hook on it down inside the case. I detected a groove near the head, that would have surely resulted in a "Case-Separation" and a possible disaster for me.



If you use Bolt action Rifles and use the same ammo in the same rifle, and if you use low pressure firings,
and if you neck size only,
your brass can last a long time.



If, on the other hand, you use a semi-auto, you may lose a lot of brass because you can't find it in the weeds ...

The brass you do recover, WILL REQUIRE full length resizing.

Now you are stressing the brass.

STAT !

" X " Grains of the appropriate "NITRO-CELLULOSE"

topped off with your favorite 55 Grain thumper.

Enjoy, and repeat.



~~~

Repeat,


Two stalwarts are

RamRoddoc and Chuckdog.

If they don't know, and this is very unusual, they will NOT feed B.S.

 

[kimchee45]

Dang it all !

After I posted my comments, I realized that many, many others on this site may be offended by my comments.

I truly am sorry if I offended many of the hundreds of other folk who have these same skills, and might have been offended by my comments, as if I had slighted them.

Trust me. I do not intended to slight any capable person ever !

I, sadly cannot know all of all you folk and your skill levels.

I did intend to cite two folk who I trust.

You are free to choose who you trust.

 

[Chuckdog]

RamRoddoc and Chuckdog.

they will NOT feed B.S.

Not to speak for anyone else here, but this much of what you've typed is true!
There's much for us all to learn everyday. I enjoy learning more about things I like.

I also enjoy sharing what I've picked up through my own experiences,
and the experiences of many others over years.

Thanks' for such kind words, Chuckdog

 

[dunkel]

Well, I'm sure I'll have to figure out a lot on my own. Still, it's good to have plenty of input before diving in.

I think I'm going with a Lee Classic Cast press and the Pacesetter die set:

Lee 223 Pacesetter 3-Die Set includes Full Length Sizing Die, Bullet Seating Die, Factory Crimp Die, Universal Shell Holder, Powder Dipper and Instructions/Load Data.

At least for starters.

 

[Chuckdog]

Very solid choices. You'll be impressed with the press.

There's always a place for a solid single stage press at my bench.