Hot Bluing-Tips and Pics

[Indirect Fire]

I have a "not so quality pistol" that I have done a good bit of the prep work in regards to finishing the frame (320girt/400grit) but still see several areas that seem to be stained from the old bluing and no amount of solvent or sanding seems to remove them. Question, while the spots are clean and smooth (per my beginning standards) will the hot blue finish actually coat them so it appears to be an even finish or will they show through blotchy?

I had a far better shop when I was 12 years old (divorce sales ruined me) so I am using a friends shop near my house. Any advise you can pass on without a pic (I can post if needed). The firearm is not a high end piece by any measure but my father gave it to me as an 11/12 year old so I am trying to get it as close to normal as possible before showing him. (Iver Johnson Mod55 Target). What say you sir?

 

[RamRoddoc]

http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/597462-quot-Grande-Puissance-quot

A Browning Hi-Power with a Duracoat job gets a tune up/re-re-finish....


Before:

During:

After:

Which one? Upper right is the one. Bottom is factory and left is a paid re-blue job, not my work.

 

[RamRoddoc]

I have a "not so quality pistol" that I have done a good bit of the prep work in regards to finishing the frame (320girt/400grit) but still see several areas that seem to be stained from the old bluing and no amount of solvent or sanding seems to remove them. Question, while the spots are clean and smooth (per my beginning standards) will the hot blue finish actually coat them so it appears to be an even finish or will they show through blotchy?

I had a far better shop when I was 12 years old (divorce sales ruined me) so I am using a friends shop near my house. Any advise you can pass on without a pic (I can post if needed). The firearm is not a high end piece by any measure but my father gave it to me as an 11/12 year old so I am trying to get it as close to normal as possible before showing him. (Iver Johnson Mod55 Target). What say you sir?

Sorry to hear about the divorce sales. The surface prep is critical and more so with the finer sanding grades 600-800-1000 grit. Normally, when you sand to bare metal the stains, bluing are gone. However pitting is another matter. Without seeing the metal, I really can't make a guess at what would work. A couple of pics with a clear close up would be most helpful.

 

[Indirect Fire]

While I oiled it down well until the next step (and put the grip back on) this is sort of what I am talking about. Used acetone, plenty of sanding work and power brush on the pitting areas (yikes) before sanding them. But I have only used 200. 320 and 400 grit. I do have access to a bead blaster if needed.

What say you? Have more pics if need. (I could buy a mint condition piece for $250 but this this has allot of sentimental value).

FYI- The cylinder was stored correctly and maintains the full factory blue so I have left it alone.


View attachment 273582

 

[RamRoddoc]

The darker areas may just be blued areas. I would fold some 230-320 grit sandpaper to abut 1/2" and rub a spot in and see if it is just superficial. If it's not, I'm not sure what that is. But you can only go so far.

If the trigger guard comes out lay it flat on glass, and flat sand it to maintain sharp edges. Use a dense foam pad backing for the curve/contour of the round guard surface, using caution to not bevel the sharp edges. A little beveling and you can clean it up by flat glass or block sanding it.

You can leave the cylinder be and attempt to hot blue it once it has been degreased. My goal would be to match the surface grit/grade of the cylinder so the gun would match up evenly. You did break the gun down with the trigger group, hammer/sear and all the guts out, right?

 

[Indirect Fire]

The darker areas may just be blued areas. I would fold some 230-320 grit sandpaper to abut 1/2" and rub a spot in and see if it is just superficial. If it's not, I'm not sure what that is. But you can only go so far.

If the trigger guard comes out lay it flat on glass, and flat sand it to maintain sharp edges. Use a dense foam pad backing for the curve/contour of the round guard surface, using caution to not bevel the sharp edges. A little beveling and you can clean it up by flat glass or block sanding it.

You can leave the cylinder be and attempt to hot blue it once it has been degreased. My goal would be to match the surface grit/grade of the cylinder so the gun would match up evenly. You did break the gun down with the trigger group, hammer/sear and all the guts out, right?

Sounds like a plan, yes I did break it down but then after working on the edges reassembled and sanded over the pins. Going to take it back over to my pals shop, he refinished old optics, antique survey instruments, microscopes and is using just about everything you would find in a good smith shop. hehe...he also is a perfectionist that pretty much agreed with your COA.

Back to the drawing board. I did notice tooling marks along that trigger guard that were not so noticeable under the light in my apt. After much searching in my old work crates I was unable to find the front-sight assembly but my well-seasoned father found one, then lost it so that should be here soon.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[markj]

I want to encourage anyone thinking about giving this a try to do it. If you are the type of person to work on and customize your own pistols with the tools and understanding to do it, then doing your own hot bluing really helps finish off the project and with very little expense.

Here is the only good before and after I have but it really shows the importance of prep. Its a 3 screw single six I picked up in a pawn shop:



This is a little ATI Titan where I used the checkering file to put some slide top serrations then polish and blue the slide.



Here is my last big project. It was a very well worn Gold Cup. It has Wilson Combat Rear sight and grip safety, and lots of little custom touches like the flat trigger, Slide stop, FO front sight, front strap checkering, etc.... I probably never would have taken on this project without the ability to easily blue it right here at home.

 

[Indirect Fire]

Nice, no doubt.

 

[markj]

Forlorn Hope, That revolver of yours will make a perfect first bluing project. The old blue will show through though. Did you try vinegar? it works pretty well. Just drop the frame in a plastic container of vinegar and let it sit for a few hours, worth a try......

 

[dougiemac]

My buddy Bruce Weeks does this professionally at Mill Creek Gun Works. All of his guns turn out so sweet. I'm taking a project Moss590A1 to him to play with. Here's a pic of a few he recently did.