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yea. I had an engineer come out and this is what he recommended. Obviously he was willing to do all the work, but wanted $13K. and that aint an option.
Well I for one have a B E in structural engineering. No P E though cause I went straight into building roads and big bridges instead of checking drawings fer three years.
If you post a bunch of good photos of yer bow all us ODT builder types will prolly tell you more.
The pressure from the ground is pushing against the basement wall. Over time, it’s developed a bowWhats causing the deflection? Old, span too long, load from above, or the most often over looked item is a uplift on the end creating a dip in the middle.
LvLs are great but take up more space when compared to steel. Your jack studs won't change.
I am a fan of LVL because you can temp support the ceiling on both sides, cut your joist, mount your LVL, use Simpson Ties from HD or Lowes and have some wood to nail and finish too.
EDIT: I did not see where you plainly said WALL.....and I was thinking floor. BUt most applied but is more involved. Follow the load up to the roof and back down.
Yea. I’ll snap a bunch tonight and post them for y’all to seeYou prolly can’t move that ground back into place with framing. Photos would be helpful.
They no longer sell anythingTaylor's junk /scrap yard on hwy 61
It's good to at least get it evaluated correctly.
My dad was an architect. I grew up around construction.
Let's just say I've seen some stuff. And there's a reason I mentioned its a good idea to get an architect or engineer to check it out.
Residential contractors are not qualified to evaluate something like this-no matter what they will tell you. And a lot of designs nowadays are sketchy. Spans loo long for wood in the first place, or foundations that won't work well on a hill or sandy soil. There's a reason that is bowing out in the first place, and that reason is some contractor screwed up.
Some of these contractors running around now are worse than any used car salesman. Some have never held a hammer.....