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Powder age

As long as you've managed to store the powder in a low- to moderate-humidity environment and in non-extreme temperatures, powder will last decades. You'll know if it's gone off because the inside of the container won't look 'clean' - it'll sometimes be stained brown from the nitrogen oxides that get given off when it degrades.

Obviously, if it's clumping, some degradation has occurred, but if it has maintained its original granular structure, you're probably OK.
 
I couldn't believe it when I saw the price tag was $15.95. I bought 3 lb of xbr8208 the other day and it was 55 bucks a pound. The cheapest powder on the shelf they had was $45 a pound. But I mean you can't argue with that because if you try to buy it online the hazmat fees just knock you off your feet!

Probably sometime in the mid-1980's then
 
I just read a cool bit of trivia. I'm going to start reloading 30-06 and 308 and I just pulled up online what's a good powder to use for both. It led me to a forum about the testing of a new 30 cal round which was to be the .308. They used IMR 4895. It was also suggested that was the powder of choice in the Garand match events " proof of its 30-06 loading compatibility ".

The testing was done at Aberdeen proving ground by Frankford Arsenal which was in Aberdeen Maryland about 7 miles from where I lived from 1986 to 1989. This 30 caliber short round was given the abbreviation T65 " T for test round " which eventually switched from Frankford Arsenal to Remington Arms and then became T65E which was the .308... Formal standardization of this being a military cartridge was complete in 1954. Cool bit of trivia. That's a oversimplification of the process but basically gives you the idea of how it came about.
 
As long as you've managed to store the powder in a low- to moderate-humidity environment and in non-extreme temperatures, powder will last decades. You'll know if it's gone off because the inside of the container won't look 'clean' - it'll sometimes be stained brown from the nitrogen oxides that get given off when it degrades.

Obviously, if it's clumping, some degradation has occurred, but if it has maintained its original granular structure, you're probably OK.
Then it should be good to go. I did take the cap off but it still has the factory seal and I didn't want to take that off until I get ready to use it.
 
Probably sometime in the mid-1980's then
I have some powder I bought in the early 90's that has a $12.95 price tag on it. I have 3031 in tins with $7.95 on the tag. 2400 in a huge 20# cardboard container. Bullseye in a 15# metal tin that looks like a cartoon explosives container.

All kept dry and all work & meter fine. Never had any old powder fail to deliver velocities expected.
 
I have some powder I bought in the early 90's that has a $12.95 price tag on it. I have 3031 in tins with $7.95 on the tag. 2400 in a huge 20# cardboard container. Bullseye in a 15# metal tin that looks like a cartoon explosives container.

All kept dry and all work & meter fine. Never had any old powder fail to deliver velocities expected.

One bit of advice I did get from an old guy I was talking to - as soon as you break the seal on a jug or jar of powder, drop in a silica gel bag.

Quick and easy way to cut down on humidity, which is the second biggest enemy after temperature.
 
I recently used and entire metal can of IMR 3031 loading .308. It had an old price tag on it indicating something less than $20....I don't remember exactly. I'm guessing the powder was manufactured back in the 90's, but it had been properly stored. The ammo ran perfectly and chrono'd dead on book velocity.
 
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