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Replacement Fuel Pump Question...

militaryrednek

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so my fuel pump went south in my truck last week (99% sure). 2005 f150 fx4, so its in the tank. planning on taking the bed off to do it as i have half a tank of gas (15g) and no place to drain. gonna start hitting the bolts for the bed with break free, little bit of research says those are a pain to get out the first time. Plan on either me picking it up and taking it off, or if i can get ahold of my buddies engine hoist and using that. filler neck is a few bolts and grounding strap then falls free, and there should be a quick disconnect underneath for the taillights. so it SHOULD be a million times easier than dropping the tank.

Backstory on Pump issue (so you can agree with pump, or if you think it may be something else): last week pulling into my gfs house, it felt like it was struggling and almost dieng in the turn, felt like i had a flat tire making the turn into the driveway. check engine light came on (steady) then went to the store, idle in drive at about 500ish RPM and had a chug-a-lug feel to it. very slow acceleration. trouble starting up when we tried to leave, loud grind from fuel tank area when put into start, when it did start, it slowy started up (meaning started, but at like 200rpm then slowly came to life). upon driving home, check engine light flashing at me (limp mode, means "find somewhere to park" lol) upon acceleration up a hill, then went back steady on flats. slow to turn and has a vibration, almost like turning on concrete with the hubs are locked, but not as bad.

i then replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel filter and test drove. still acting the same, but a ton stronger on start up. starts up like a champ now, but still has a bump in the idle in park, and when in gear the RPMs still drop and it chug-a-lugs. you can hear a faint whine when turning the power on (but not starting) from the fuel pump. but nowhere near as lound as the first time it whined right when it started.

my brother was supposed to bring his scan tools home from work (master mechanic at world toyota) and read the code the computer is throwing. but of course, he forgot the scan tool :mad:. he started it and everything and said it does sound exacltly like the fuel pump went south. if the pump wasnt making a sound, i would be more concerned about throwing parts at it, but with the sound, im 99% sure its not a coil/plug/sensor issue.



now on to my question, parts stores and dealers are freaking stupid on prices for fuel pumps. so i was looking at ordering from ebay. should i just order the fuel pump, or the pump and the entire sender unit? looks easier just to replace the entire sender unit.

just the pump http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FUEL-PU...iter_Display:5.4L&hash=item58a284db31&vxp=mtr

pump with sending unit http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Electri...iter_Display:5.4L&hash=item35c62e5ba6&vxp=mtr



the only other thing i can find to check is there is a wiring harness connection underneath the truck near the fuel filter on the fram that apperently the ground wire for the fuel pump control module can rot away. be checking that tonight. all i have to do is run a jumper wire to see if it is that. but with the whine/grind the pump is making, im doubtful of that.

But and personal experiance / advise on the issue is highly appreaciated!! :D
 
if you end up changing it, and its likely you will I would not go with something from ebay. Get one from advance oreilly or napa that has a warranty and a local place to honor it. If the sender is working just get the pump.

Good Luck
 
Last one I did on that model the truck would run then you shut it off and would not crank untill the pump cooled off, I dropped the tank changed pump I have done diff trucks by the top removing/ tilting the bed, either way I would probley change pump to if It were me.
 
Go to NAPA and buy a complete unit. Don't buy just a pump, it has a warranty but do you really want to be changing it out again?

If you want to order and save some money, look at rockauto.com
 
I have done one on an f150. I would replace the entire unit. Wouldnt it suck if you replace the pump and the sending unit goes out a month later. I bought mine on eBay. I found a good aftermarket part searching parts unlimited and then searched the part number on eBay and got it cheaper. I pulled the bed. I used four straps and hooked them to the brackets on my garage door mounts. I then put milk crates between the bed and frame just for security before i stuck my head in there. It was actually much easier that I feared. You are going to need the special ford tool to unscrew the cap on the tank or get a really large adjustable wrench. I have a pair that are about two feet long that worked. Took me about two hours. Good luck.
 
Advance and Auto Zone will run a FREE scan for the asking, then you'll have confirmation.

I've done this on a couple of vehicles laid a piece of 1x10 on top of a hydraulic shop jack, raised it up snug against the tank, unbolted the straps and slowly lowered the tank to the ground,,did my work and re installed by raising with the jack. You need about 20 second of help lining it up , replace the strap bolt and out of there.
Done by by myself , thats why I say 20 secs of help will save you a little straining and several four letter words.

I didn't notice it in the post but if you didn't already, I'd change the fuel filter before I spent all that money and did all that work....never know.
If I was changing pump, I'd change sending unit and after changing those I'd do the filter anyway..
It really sucks to do part of it and have to go back two or three weeks later and dismantle everything again...... everything new from tank to engine.
 
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i may spend a bit more money and go through Rockauto.com 160ish through them for the complet pump/sender unit. autozone/parts stores are showing about 300ish base price for them.

i think im gonna replace the pump and sender. might as well put a entire new one in while im doing it. spend a bit more for peace of mind.
 
Advance and Auto Zone will run a FREE scan for the asking, then you'll have confirmation.

I've done this on a couple of vehicles laid a piece of 1x10 on top of a hydraulic shop jack, raised it up snug against the tank, unbolted the straps and slowly lowered the tank to the ground,,did my work and re installed by raising with the jack. You need about 20 second of help lining it up , replace the strap bolt and out of there.
Done by by myself , thats why I say 20 secs of help will save you a little straining and several four letter words.

cant drive it :( surges bad when trying to get out my neighboorhood (hill). dont trust it.
 
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