The Rossi front sight was used to make the filler. The tail cut off, trimmed .48 inches long and flattened on the underside. A snug push fit with the thumb. Once the groove and sight tail were cleaned, they were painted with 609 locking compound and pressed back into place. 609 was flooded over the top and allowed to wick into the joints. The excess wiped off. Upon hardening, it expanded into the joints locking the new serrated filler into place. It takes about 350 to 500F (soldering iron works) to break the bond so it should stay in place nicely. Could also drill and pin or use epoxy or solder into place. Could even just fill the mortise with black colored epoxy. IF it pops out I'll holler back.....don't think it will though.
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Rossi RP63, 357 Magnum, Notes, Thoughts, Basic Tuning and Grip Options
- Thread starter Sharps40
- Start date
So, continuing to experiment on this handgun. Previously, converted to Taurus 856 Boot Grip and screw retention vice pin for the grip. Also, barrel shortened to 2 7/16 inches with Taurus 856/Ameriglo Orange/Tritum front sight, changed rebound spring.
Since there are no bobbed hammer/spur less models available and parts are factory controlled anyway, i decided to see what in the way of available parts will fit and function.
A parts kit from a stainless model 720 was acquired and it looks like the parts interchange will include mainspring, rebound spring, rebound slide, hammer block, rear side plate screws, hammer (with mods), trigger, cylinder ratchet, cylinder bolt, cylinder bolt spring.
Here we go, converting my bobbed barrel RP63 to spur less hammer, Double Action Only.
These are the Factory RP63 parts removed and boxed with all the original stuff/papers. Reconversion to spurred hammer DA/SA action is a simple parts swap.
Since there are no bobbed hammer/spur less models available and parts are factory controlled anyway, i decided to see what in the way of available parts will fit and function.
A parts kit from a stainless model 720 was acquired and it looks like the parts interchange will include mainspring, rebound spring, rebound slide, hammer block, rear side plate screws, hammer (with mods), trigger, cylinder ratchet, cylinder bolt, cylinder bolt spring.
Here we go, converting my bobbed barrel RP63 to spur less hammer, Double Action Only.
These are the Factory RP63 parts removed and boxed with all the original stuff/papers. Reconversion to spurred hammer DA/SA action is a simple parts swap.
Model 720 SS (not MIM) trigger is a direct fit. (RP63 MIM Trigger below).
Simply cleaned it, polished and installed using the RP63 Cylinder Hand (as its already fitted to the cylinder) and used the RP63 MIM Cylinder Bolt (As its already fitted to the cylinder.
RP63 Rebound slide works fine with the 720 Trigger.
Advantages of the change? The RP63 trigger is wider than the trigger guard and smooth faced, and MIM. The 720 trigger is narrower than the trigger guard, grooved faced and not MIM.
Simply cleaned it, polished and installed using the RP63 Cylinder Hand (as its already fitted to the cylinder) and used the RP63 MIM Cylinder Bolt (As its already fitted to the cylinder.
RP63 Rebound slide works fine with the 720 Trigger.
Advantages of the change? The RP63 trigger is wider than the trigger guard and smooth faced, and MIM. The 720 trigger is narrower than the trigger guard, grooved faced and not MIM.
Model 720 SS Spur-less Hammer (Not MIM) is not a direct fit. RP63 MIM hammer shown left.
The 720 hammer needs the axle hole drilled and reamed to .140 inch. Easily done on a drill press and this steel drills a darn site easier than MIM. The hole was then deburred. The left side of the hammer needs a mortise for the tenon on the cylinder release slide to ride in. The purpose of the tenon is to prevent the hammer from being activated by the trigger with the cylinder open. For the shape of the mortise, see the photo of the factory hammer above.
The RP63 hammer block safety was reinstalled and works fine with the 720 hammer.
Advantages? Snag free. Will force me to remain proficient in Double Action.
The 720 hammer needs the axle hole drilled and reamed to .140 inch. Easily done on a drill press and this steel drills a darn site easier than MIM. The hole was then deburred. The left side of the hammer needs a mortise for the tenon on the cylinder release slide to ride in. The purpose of the tenon is to prevent the hammer from being activated by the trigger with the cylinder open. For the shape of the mortise, see the photo of the factory hammer above.
The RP63 hammer block safety was reinstalled and works fine with the 720 hammer.
Advantages? Snag free. Will force me to remain proficient in Double Action.
The RP63 Mainspring strut and spring clip were removed. Installed are the 720 mainspring strut and spring ball. I used the RP63 mainspring since it is newer and a lower spring rate than the old and higher rate 720 spring.
Nope, the spring ball doesn't slip thru nor move around, it works fine to replace the flat spring clip of the RP63.
Nope, the spring ball doesn't slip thru nor move around, it works fine to replace the flat spring clip of the RP63.
The foot of the 720 hammer is a bit longer than the factory RP63 hammer and holds the hammer nose farther out when the rebound slide pushes the firing pin clear of the primer at trigger reset.
The combined height of the tenons on the hammer and rebound slide determine both resting position and mainspring preload. Lower one or both tenons to move the resting position of the hammer toward the muzzle. (The resting position must fully enclose the firing pin within the frame at rest, it must also allow sufficient gap between hammer and frame for full function of the hammer block. Once moved forward, there will be a slight decrease in the preload of the main spring positively affecting both trigger feel, pull weight and while still providing excellent trigger reset with a reduced power rebound spring, especially when combined with a full power main spring as has been done here.)
The combined height of the tenons on the hammer and rebound slide determine both resting position and mainspring preload. Lower one or both tenons to move the resting position of the hammer toward the muzzle. (The resting position must fully enclose the firing pin within the frame at rest, it must also allow sufficient gap between hammer and frame for full function of the hammer block. Once moved forward, there will be a slight decrease in the preload of the main spring positively affecting both trigger feel, pull weight and while still providing excellent trigger reset with a reduced power rebound spring, especially when combined with a full power main spring as has been done here.)
.011" was removed from the foot of the 720 hammer bringing it's total height to match the .050 foot of the factory RP63 hammer foot.
The tip of the 720 firing pin was moved to the same resting position as the factory RP63 pin. A full .050" forward movement. Pin is enclosed, sufficient space is afforded to the hammer block, trigger reset is smother and more positive with the lower preload on the heavy factory mainspring.
The tip of the 720 firing pin was moved to the same resting position as the factory RP63 pin. A full .050" forward movement. Pin is enclosed, sufficient space is afforded to the hammer block, trigger reset is smother and more positive with the lower preload on the heavy factory mainspring.
