Well true , you will need a belt on to check compression.
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Why did this timing belt fail at only 60k miles?
- Thread starter streetroc
- Start date
There is no compression. The starter is still spinning the crank but the cams and valves are frozen in whatever position they were in when the belt broke. Some of the valves are obviously still open but not sure how far.
I would use the borescope and if it all looks ok I would then install a new timing belt after lining the gears back up and see if she starts and runs good. It's a crap shoot with that engine.
Yeah I'm going to get a new OEM belt and see what happens. Maybe I'll get lucky but I have a feeling that I will be pulling the cylinder head off and sending it back to the machine shop. I still can't believe that this belt is in such bad shape after only 60K.
If it turned lose while you were slowly
10 to 1 says you will need a head job at the least. Using the engine to slow down when it popped almost guarantees it has a few bent valves.
After examining the picture very closely. I used my mechanical knowledge gained from over 30 years experience working on motor vehicles. From what I can tell the failure was caused by the Belt breaking. Hope that helps
All smartelica side.
All smartelica side.
Sounds like you're the perfect man for the job. I expect it to be back back on the road by the end of the weekend. Sure would be a real shame if someone were to leave you negative feedback....
I changed the timing belt on my wife's 2015 pilot with 120,000 miles, it was in great shape. Your belt is shocking! Why does it have a belt change already if it only has 60k on the car?
No idea. I'm shocked too. It is a manual and I like winding out the revs between gears but it's a bone stock accord engine and I don't get crazy with it. I also downshift and rev match a lot. Maybe all the reverse torque from using engine braking to slow down is harder on the belt?
When you are taking it apart, check the torque on the bolts for the pulleys, the tensioner, waterpump, then make sure they are all spinning freely and dont have a seized bearing, and check that the tensioner is actually applying the right force to the belt. Really seems like that belt was getting too hot and the main reasons for that would be either the tension on it was wrong, or a pulley was loose, or again just a poor quality belt, but even then I have changed out 5 timing belts, one that had 200k miles on it and none of em looked close to that bad. Thats the kind of **** I'd expect from someone who pulled a car out of a barn for 30 years and then drove it without changing belts.
