.223 Reaming the Crimp ~ Does this look correct?

[1006]

They grow when you size them. I never trim 223, 556, 300BLK, 30-30’s, or straight wall cases.

But, I believe that most AR15s will have a generous enough chamber to forgo trimming.

A match chamber in bolt action may require proper trimming.

 

[PewPewChris]

They grow when you size them. I never trim 223, 556, 300BLK, 30-30’s, or straight wall cases.

But, I believe that most AR15s will have a generous enough chamber to forgo trimming.

A match chamber in bolt action may require proper trimming.

Ok so this may be a dumb question, but with a progressive press, is the sizing/decapping die basically useless if you are working with cases that are already deprimmed? If you were looking to trim cases to spec, wouldn't it be more efficient to use a sizing die first (maybe on a single stage press), then trim, then begin with those cases to start the reloading process in the progressive press?

 

[bulletpaluza]

They grow when you size them. I never trim 223, 556, 300BLK, 30-30’s, or straight wall cases.

But, I believe that most AR15s will have a generous enough chamber to forgo trimming.

A match chamber in bolt action may require proper trimming.

It's not the chambers that gets you. I almost never trim 223 unless it's match ammo I am loading. But when you got to crimp un-uniform cases its easy to push the neck down slight enough that you can't see or make it hard to see/catch and it will cause stuck cases that suck to get out!

 

[1006]

I agree, but I do not normally crimp rifle brass. When I do crimp 556/223, I use the Lee Factory crimp die and it works without creating downward force. It just squishes the neck against the bullet. So, the Lee FCD works well with untrimmed brass.

to the OP: yes, most guys resize, trim, prime and then back to the progressive press for powder, bullet seating, and maybe a crimp.