5.7 vortec rod bearing replace

[Frank75]

Have any of you guys replaced the rod bearings while motor in truck. I have a 98 k1500 with a knock that just started. It's not a daily driver just a Yard truck for dump and Home Depot runs.

 

[Cadcom]

Have any of you guys replaced the rod bearings while motor in truck. I have a 98 k1500 with a knock that just started. It's not a daily driver just a Yard truck for dump and Home Depot runs.

Several vids on YouTube showing this. I think I'd try it if it wasn't a daily driver.

 

[Frank75]

Several vids on YouTube showing this. I think I'd try it if it wasn't a daily driver.

I believe I'm going to just wanted to know how big of a pain in the a** it's going to be.

 

[Cadcom]

I believe I'm going to just wanted to know how big of a pain in the a** it's going to be.

A big one if it's anything like every project I attempt on my 88 K1500. Good luck!

 

[logcabinman]

Assuming the pan can be relatively easily dropped, rod bearings are easy. Mains bearings are another story. Couple of years ago I did my 4WD Cherokee 4.0 with a leaking rear main seal. 2 piece main seal and rod bearings were easy. Getting all the 4WD stuff out of the way was much harder. That said, however, if the rod is knocking, you may do a lot of work for little return. If the crank journal is rough or out of round, even a little bit, the new rod bearing won't last that long. There used to be companies that would regrind rod journals and bore blocks with the engine in the car. Not sure if that is done today.

 

[MRM]

I was going to do it on my 4.3.
I ended up paying a mechanic to do it for me.
He charged 200. It has probably been two years now. The truck has been running ever since with zero odd noises or problems.
Unfortunately he is no longer in business.

I basically stopped driving it as soon as it started knocking.

The replacement seemed straightforward. I didn't know wether to order a standard set of bearings or if I should try and measure for bearings and then order them. Or if I should use plastigauge or not.
Also you might want to be prepared to polish the crank a touch if it is scored.
But I didn't do the job in the end.

 

[Frank75]

I was going to do it on my 4.3.
I ended up paying a mechanic to do it for me.
He charged 200. It has probably been two years now. The truck has been running ever since with zero odd noises or problems.
Unfortunately he is no longer in business.

I basically stopped driving it as soon as it started knocking.

The replacement seemed straightforward. I didn't know wether to order a standard set of bearings or if I should try and measure for bearings and then order them. Or if I should use plastigauge or not.
Also you might want to be prepared to polish the crank a touch if it is scored.
But I didn't do the job in the end.

I have decided to go ahead and do it. I'm going to plastigauge it and purchase the correct ones at the lower end of tolerance at least that's the information I been getting from the local machine shops.

 

[MRM]

I have decided to go ahead and do it. I'm going to plastigauge it and purchase the correct ones at the lower end of tolerance at least that's the information I been getting from the local machine shops.

I think you will be successful. The condition of the crank and the plastigauge results should give you a good idea if it is going to work before you even put the pan back on.

 

[Frank75]

I think you will be successful. The condition of the crank and the plastigauge results should give you a good idea if it is going to work before you even put the pan back on.

I hoping it goes pretty easy but like everything else I do it probably won't!

 

[roundhouse]

You sure it’s a rod and not a wrist pin ?