A/C ????

[41mag]

"orifice tube" - that's the other gizmo I was trying to think of. All reminds me of "chinese handcuffs".



Yep. If I recall correctly, whatever parts store I bought my last compressor from had that as part of the warranty.

i'm a big "junkyard dog" but I get a reman compressor with a warranty, labor is too expensive to mess with used parts.

On the plus side, all the compressors that failed were high mileage, and I never had any issues with the replacements.

I did have to replace one in my dad's 1982 Isuzu diesel PU (dryer)(motto, "we're peddling as hard as we can.") and I think it had to be handmade by a Samurai master in Japan. Was definitely not on the shelf at the local parts store.

Yep, I would not doubt it a bit. Lol. Some of them parts i think they ship in straight from japan , thats what it seems like when you need it ‘asap’ .
By the time you get it you are thinking ‘WTF? They have to make this damned thing when i ordered it?’ LMAO

A/c systems are as bad about dirt and impurity as transmissions are.

 

[BanjoJohn]

"orifice tube" - that's the other gizmo I was trying to think of. All reminds me of "chinese handcuffs".



Yep. If I recall correctly, whatever parts store I bought my last compressor from had that as part of the warranty.

i'm a big "junkyard dog" but I get a reman compressor with a warranty, labor is too expensive to mess with used parts.

On the plus side, all the compressors that failed were high mileage, and I never had any issues with the replacements.

I did have to replace one in my dad's 1982 Isuzu diesel PU (dryer)(motto, "we're peddling as hard as we can.") and I think it had to be handmade by a Samurai master in Japan. Was definitely not on the shelf at the local parts store.

I didn't have any luck with "rebuilt" A/C compressors. I put one on that lasted 2 weeks, the compressor clutch bearing went out. Replaced with another rebuilt that lasted 1 week and the seal just behind the clutch ruptured.
Replaced with a NEW compressor and she's still going after 20 years.

Yes, I know, I'll drive them forever.

 

[41mag]

Any ‘remanufactured’ aka rebuilt , compressors are as prone to failure as anything else. They are only as good as the minimum wage guy putting them together.
That being said i usually check bearing and clutch clearance in three spots on one just to be sure.
Also you should always completely drain all the oil out of the rebuilt unit , measure up a quantity of fresh, quality oil and put it in the system as required before install. Also , as previously stated flushing the lines and cores are very important.
Once all is together, vacuum it down overnight if possible (5-8 hrs at least) measure the oil withdrawn on vacuum and replace it thru Schrader valve on low side. Disconnect vac , let sit for a couple hours at least.
A system with a very slight leak will not hold vacuum. Easier to find it through vacuum than after you pump it full of freon.

 

[shootsacanon]

Just asking, isn't there an inline filter to catch the crap.

I don't know; That's about the extent of my AC knowledge. I just know that the CR-Vs are notorious for this, so it there is one, it's not doing the job.

ETA: I see that's been answered. Both of mine were replaced as "kits," which included dryer, etc.

 

[CAMSDADDY]

Also have them change the condenser. It seems to catch a lot of the crap. Make sure the electric fans are coming on. We had a customer yesterday bring her crv in because the dealer told her she needed a compressor job. We found they had removed the relay going to the compressor. We also found the fans had power going to them but they were not coming on. Replaced the fans, ac works and customer saved $500-$600

 

[Rivershot]

Im lost. So your 130lb gauge Im guessing is actually a suction side gauge. If so, how are you hooking it to a high side port to get a reading? Regardless, you need to get some real readings and start checking for power at the clutch.

I'm sorry I'm having a hard time communicating, not the first time.

Yes, I'm hooking up the gauges correctly. I have an old set (r12) with made up hoses. I am not an A/C person and have to look at temp and pressure chart when filling a system. But this gauge set and even one of the basically disposable one that Joe-blow zone sells with a can of 134a maxed out on the L-side, yes the suction side.

The compressor is hard to get to, and so is the dryer with the low pressure switch (need to move or remove the power steering reservoir ) to get to any wiring.

This is a newly acquired car and I was hoping it was just low. The car is 20yrs old 144,500 mi and still has the original timing belt and a leaky radiator. So those are my priority. I'll do electrical testing on the clutch and pressure sw. before I get to a point in the disassembly that I can't fire it up for a min. or 2., but will be able to access the A/C.

As some posted earlier and a little web research, it seams it's locked up.
Not in a rush and my shop is HOT as Hell and I take care of my Mom in the mornings, so it may take a couple of week to get there.

Thanks for the help and what to check for, I'm not new to mechanics (ASE cert. CSI and Jet mid 80's) I just know enough about A/C follow the simple stuff first and electrical is easy IF it is accessible.

Sorry for the long post, I'll have more to add in a week or so.

 

[jeep78]

That timing belt is on borrowed time. And no such thing as junkyard motors for those if you wait too long.

You just think the ac compressor has access problems, just wait till you do the timing belt!

On the plus side, you will easily be able to access the ac stuff when you have the timing belt torn down.

 

[bigt61]

Take the radiator out since it’s leaking anyways

While it’s out do the timing belt service

 

[Rivershot]

I agree on all of the last couple of posts. It's not leaving the yard until it gets a timing belt, A/c would be better but, not a deal breaker for this car.