• If you are having trouble changng your password please click here for help.

Any Good 2002-2011 Crown Vic Mechanics within 15 miles of Woodstock GA ?

I first thought it was the IAC , but this year model does not have 1 like the 2005 & before , & as for a Vacuum leak , I thought of that & figured my $150 Diagnostic check would let me know if I have one .
But
After being told I had 3-4 mm left on my front brakes that I just replaced on March 7 25 .

I also know it takes 30 min to an hour before the issue starts or I must drive 20-30 miles before it acts up ; & going by my " miles to empty Gauge " they only drove it 9 miles that day . Soooooo?

Man it's hard to trust some people .

I thank you for taking the time to reply & truly appreciate it.

God Bless you & yours .

David

If it's a drive by wire system, the next step should be to either do a thorough cleaning of the throttle body, especially around the butterfly, or replace the the throttle body and a to eliminate the DBW actuator as an issue.

...But you also mentioned that it acts up after certain number of miles. Is it only acting up at idle, or is it also while driving?

Acting up while driving along with no codes usually points to a fuel pump of fuel pressure regulator.
 
If it's a drive by wire system, the next step should be to either do a thorough cleaning of the throttle body, especially around the butterfly, or replace the the throttle body and a to eliminate the DBW actuator as an issue.

...But you also mentioned that it acts up after certain number of miles. Is it only acting up at idle, or is it also while driving?

Acting up while driving along with no codes usually points to a fuel pump of fuel pressure regulator.
Just acts up while idling / stopping at Red lights . It's fine in Park or in Neutral tho .

I got a great guy on here that has given me some good advice , so I'm much less stressed about it now .

I also thank you for the heads up on the fuel pump & pressure regulator .

I will get it figured out & again truly appreciate your & the others help with this .

David
 
Get yourself an OBD dongle and download Forscan software to your phone. You can set up different perimeters to monitor while running. Should be able to eliminate certain areas and narrow it down.
Thanks I will look into that , it will not work on my flip phone LOL but the wife has a New Android & my Son has a 2 year old Apple .

My Son calls me a "Boomer" but I am straight Gen X & proud of it . :cool:
 
This is one of those times you just have to be patient to get to the end result. Drive it till the check engine light stays on. Then you can diagnose it. I had to go through stalls and everything else till it could be figured out. My brother in law spent a lot of money on that car while he had it. It was still a basket case. i had to convince my Mother in Law to just let me drive it till it could be figured out. She was afraid I'd get stranded. That is a chance you take, but I was able to work through it. Now it's a good car again.
If that car is in good shape and hasn't been wrecked, it's probably worth saving. The stuff they're building nowadays is far worse
You speak the truth & agree as it has 0 crashes ( dang door trim piece came off LOL ) Leather is great so if a warrantied repair is in order , it "May" be better than getting another $5-6.000 car . & Today's made to break cars , heck everything mechanical or technical seems to have a 2-6 year life span & Co's make things where you cannot repair things yourself .

It's Sad + it creates millions of Tonnes of waste each year , or month ?

You & everyone here has helped me tremendously & saved me a bunch of Xanax LOL :becky:

I'm 80% less stressed about this than I was just last Thursday , I will keep you informed if you like.

Have a Blessed Week .
 
For future reference early 2000’s ford vehicles are notorious for having issues similar to what you’re describing without throwing a code.
The right scanner will let you enter mode 06 data which is usually where you’ll find the code on a ford. Sometimes it’s necessary to look at the cylinder contribution to see if it’s dropping cylinder compression after it gets warmed up.

I’ve seen this a lot on the older rangers, valve seats, cylinder heads, or pistons losing compression after the engine gets warmed up and a hairline crack slightly expands. May be worth testing compression to rule out any major expenses and focus on fuel and air delivery afterwards.
 
For future reference early 2000’s ford vehicles are notorious for having issues similar to what you’re describing without throwing a code.
The right scanner will let you enter mode 06 data which is usually where you’ll find the code on a ford. Sometimes it’s necessary to look at the cylinder contribution to see if it’s dropping cylinder compression after it gets warmed up.

I’ve seen this a lot on the older rangers, valve seats, cylinder heads, or pistons losing compression after the engine gets warmed up and a hairline crack slightly expands. May be worth testing compression to rule out any major expenses and focus on fuel and air delivery afterwards.
Thank you very much , I'm going to keep driving ( local ) & see what happens ; then when I get some $ go to an expert or very knowledgeable mechanic , scan everything & go from there .

I'm NOT about to replace the Transmission just cause a shop that used to be OK has all new faces & a mostly empty lot these days .

Thanks again CrzTyles
 
You need a decent scanner that can read what various sensors and things are doing in real time

Get someone else to drive while you look at the idle air control and fuel pressure and evap system etc
 
You need a decent scanner that can read what various sensors and things are doing in real time

Get someone else to drive while you look at the idle air control and fuel pressure and evap system etc
Thanks

I'm working all that out 'Financially' & time wise as I type this .

Thank You for the reply & your time.

God Bless
 
Back
Top Bottom