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Best AR-10?

Best AR-10

  • LWRC

    Votes: 5 11.9%
  • Daniel Defense

    Votes: 4 9.5%
  • Kinghts

    Votes: 3 7.1%
  • Tacos

    Votes: 10 23.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 20 47.6%

  • Total voters
    42
Ha. I always have opinions.

Spend money up front to get quality. There are lots of good options out there - JP, GAP10, LWRC, KAC, Lanxang. All great rifles. Decide if there are any features you want or don't want and narrow it down from there.

Don't forget about the SCAR - MK20 or 17 depending on what your intentions are.
I knew you would lol. I forgot about Lanxang. Would be good to support a local business. Just got to sell the Geissele you saw.
 
Yeah! You have to take extra care. You have to spend a whole lot of money and you have to make sure and not throw your back out lifting those heavy parts.

There are no universally accepted specs for the AR10, as there are for an AR15. That's one of the advantages to milspec. AR10's aren't milspec.

Mixing and matching parts from different vendors can cause issues. You can take any "milspec" AR15 upper and lower, and they will work together the vast majority of the time.

The same cannot be said for the AR10, because there is no "spec". One company's upper may not work with another company's lower. I almost always recommend that builder's buy a receiver set if building an AR10.

Companies don't agree on such simple features as gas port sizes and gas system lengths. Buy four 18", rifle-length gas system, .308 AR barrels from four different manufacturers. Pretty good chance that each company has their own spec for the gas port.

Have an issue with your AR10 being undergassed? You can't just refer to a specs sheet to get the proper port size. You can see if it is sized as the manufacturer intended, but they may not have it right. Proof Research .308 AR10 barrels are about $900 and are notoriously overgassed, due to oversized gas ports, which PR claims is the way to go.

The entire AR world has figured out the proper gas ports for the 5.56 AR15 decades ago, regardless of barrel and gas system lengths. Manufacturers of AR10 barrels don't agree with each, and have come up with their own answers.

Buy an 18" .308 AR barrel with a rifle length gas system from Wilson Combat or S&W. Buy an industry standard, milspec, rifle length gas tube. That gas tube is too short for either of those barrels, by approximately .25". Gun won't cycle. Both of those companies use a proprietary length "rifle" gas tube for their rifle-length AR10 barrels.

You have additional lengths of buffers for the AR10 that aren't a thing for the AR15. Matching your receiver extension (see what I called it?), buffer, and buffer spring, becomes a bit more complicated.

Many tools and assembly jigs that work with the more common AR15 won't work with the less common AR10.

Most of the time, you can slap together an AR10, and she'll run. However, you are much more likely to run into issues with your build, or proper functioning, when building an AR10 vs. building a 5.56 AR15.

All of this, and more, is why I don't usually recommend using the AR10 as someone's very first build. If folks have their heart set on an AR10 for their first, I don't try and talk them out of it. I do, however, explain many of the common issues that they can encounter. We cover AR10's, as well as the AR15, in my Builder's/Armorer's Course, and students are welcome to build one if they desire.

This is all common knowledge to anyone that has any business sharing knowledge about the platform with folks that would like to know the right answers.
 
There are no universally accepted specs for the AR10, as there are for an AR15. That's one of the advantages to milspec. AR10's aren't milspec.

Mixing and matching parts from different vendors can cause issues. You can take any "milspec" AR15 upper and lower, and they will work together the vast majority of the time.

The same cannot be said for the AR10, because there is no "spec". One company's upper may not work with another company's lower. I almost always recommend that builder's buy a receiver set if building an AR10.

Companies don't agree on such simple features as gas port sizes and gas system lengths. Buy four 18", rifle-length gas system, .308 AR barrels from four different manufacturers. Pretty good chance that each company has their own spec for the gas port.

Have an issue with your AR10 being undergassed? You can't just refer to a specs sheet to get the proper port size. You can see if it is sized as the manufacturer intended, but they may not have it right. Proof Research .308 AR10 barrels are about $900 and are notoriously overgassed, due to oversized gas ports, which PR claims is the way to go.

The entire AR world has figured out the proper gas ports for the 5.56 AR15 decades ago, regardless of barrel and gas system lengths. Manufacturers of AR10 barrels don't agree with each, and have come up with their own answers.

Buy an 18" .308 AR barrel with a rifle length gas system from Wilson Combat or S&W. Buy an industry standard, milspec, rifle length gas tube. That gas tube is too short for either of those barrels, by approximately .25". Gun won't cycle. Both of those companies use a proprietary length "rifle" gas tube for their rifle-length AR10 barrels.

You have additional lengths of buffers for the AR10 that aren't a thing for the AR15. Matching your receiver extension (see what I called it?), buffer, and buffer spring, becomes a bit more complicated.

Many tools and assembly jigs that work with the more common AR15 won't work with the less common AR10.

Most of the time, you can slap together an AR10, and she'll run. However, you are much more likely to run into issues with your build, or proper functioning, when building an AR10 vs. building a 5.56 AR15.

All of this, and more, is why I don't usually recommend using the AR10 as someone's very first build. If folks have their heart set on an AR10 for their first, I don't try and talk them out of it. I do, however, explain many of the common issues that they can encounter. We cover AR10's, as well as the AR15, in my Builder's/Armorer's Course, and students are welcome to build one if they desire.

This is all common knowledge to anyone that has any business sharing knowledge about the platform with folks that would like to know the right answers.
Understood. I did have to do some things not typical in a AR-15 build. I was just horsing around.
 
There are no universally accepted specs for the AR10, as there are for an AR15. That's one of the advantages to milspec. AR10's aren't milspec.

Mixing and matching parts from different vendors can cause issues. You can take any "milspec" AR15 upper and lower, and they will work together the vast majority of the time.

The same cannot be said for the AR10, because there is no "spec". One company's upper may not work with another company's lower. I almost always recommend that builder's buy a receiver set if building an AR10.

Companies don't agree on such simple features as gas port sizes and gas system lengths. Buy four 18", rifle-length gas system, .308 AR barrels from four different manufacturers. Pretty good chance that each company has their own spec for the gas port.

Have an issue with your AR10 being undergassed? You can't just refer to a specs sheet to get the proper port size. You can see if it is sized as the manufacturer intended, but they may not have it right. Proof Research .308 AR10 barrels are about $900 and are notoriously overgassed, due to oversized gas ports, which PR claims is the way to go.

The entire AR world has figured out the proper gas ports for the 5.56 AR15 decades ago, regardless of barrel and gas system lengths. Manufacturers of AR10 barrels don't agree with each, and have come up with their own answers.

Buy an 18" .308 AR barrel with a rifle length gas system from Wilson Combat or S&W. Buy an industry standard, milspec, rifle length gas tube. That gas tube is too short for either of those barrels, by approximately .25". Gun won't cycle. Both of those companies use a proprietary length "rifle" gas tube for their rifle-length AR10 barrels.

You have additional lengths of buffers for the AR10 that aren't a thing for the AR15. Matching your receiver extension (see what I called it?), buffer, and buffer spring, becomes a bit more complicated.

Many tools and assembly jigs that work with the more common AR15 won't work with the less common AR10.

Most of the time, you can slap together an AR10, and she'll run. However, you are much more likely to run into issues with your build, or proper functioning, when building an AR10 vs. building a 5.56 AR15.

All of this, and more, is why I don't usually recommend using the AR10 as someone's very first build. If folks have their heart set on an AR10 for their first, I don't try and talk them out of it. I do, however, explain many of the common issues that they can encounter. We cover AR10's, as well as the AR15, in my Builder's/Armorer's Course, and students are welcome to build one if they desire.

This is all common knowledge to anyone that has any business sharing knowledge about the platform with folks that would like to know the right answers.
I got Mad respect for your expertise in the matter. cmshoot cmshoot
Do you have Any experience, or Would you trust a factory built complete AR10 direct from Ballistic Advantage? They appear to use all the same parts & craftsmanship as Aero. Yes? No?
 
I got Mad respect for your expertise in the matter. cmshoot cmshoot
Do you have Any experience, or Would you trust a factory built complete AR10 direct from Ballistic Advantage? They appear to use all the same parts & craftsmanship as Aero. Yes? No?

AP and BA are the same company. The ones I’ve seen and played with ran just fine. I have no idea what kinda accuracy they tend to exhibit.
 
Ha. I always have opinions.

Spend money up front to get quality. There are lots of good options out there - JP, GAP10, LWRC, KAC, Lanxang. All great rifles. Decide if there are any features you want or don't want and narrow it down from there.

Don't forget about the SCAR - MK20 or 17 depending on what your intentions are.
diamondback ar10 or gtfo!!!
 
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