So a friend and I came up with the crazy idea to create our own can similar to the one we found on an ARFCOM thread. We filed our Form 1's, and they came back in 36 days (incl Christmas eve, Christmas and new years). Not a long wait at all.
We ordered all the parts and got together in my basement today to build. I had folks warn me that the can won't sound as good as a commercial can. Well, I decided that a few Db's was worth $800 in savings. Now that it is built, I will tell you from first hand experience that it sounds every bit as good as my Liberty Mystic. I am not bashing the Mystic, it is my favorite can; but this one honestly sounds as good. It is shorter than the Mystic, weighs less than the Mystic, and costs a lot less than the Mystic. It took me about 2.5 hrs to build and only 1 month to wait for. Basically any bore size is able to be created, I just did a .30 to use with .308 and 300blk.
The materials used were Ti for the tube and spacers. Al endcaps (which could also be Ti if I want), and steel baffles (engine block freeze plugs).
The final can weighs in at 16.01oz and is 8 1/16" without a brake. It will support full auto.
Here are some picks of the build and I will post some videos of it in action. I plan on building more cans with varying bore sizes. I am $400 lazy enough to want a dedicated can for my main weapons so I don't have to take them off for another weapon.
Here are the steps in a very shortened version:
First we cut the baffle bore with a centering tool and 1/8 bit. We then pressed the baffle with a 45 taper, then a 60. Finally we cut the bore to .368 with a bit. Also cut the end cap bore. Every baffle and end cap was checked and re-checked with mike's by two people.
Next we cut the Ti spacers and blast chamber; then sanded the OD to fit perfectly in the tube ID.
Next we test fit and verified the bore lined up with the firearms bore.
Finally, we engraved them at my office with a 1/4mm bit and my dental drill.
Test fired, and everything worked! The can is very quiet with .22lr, 300blk, hearing safe with 223, 223fa, and 308. I plan on making a 9mm can and possibly a 22.
Feel free to ask questions, berate and denigrate, congratulate, etc... I am pleased with my investment and plan on doing more. The price is right, the quality is good, it is able to come apart for cleaning , is comparable to commercial cans, and is a fun weekend project.
Materials
Cutting 1/8" bore
Pressing 45 degree taper
Pressing 60 degree taper so the bore is .350-.360. (Larger is ok, but will allow more gas to escape for a .30cal)
Final drill the bore to .368
Sanding OD of Ti spacer. Spacers were cut using pipe cutter. Various sizes were used to stagger the baffles. The blast chamber took the longest "spacer".
We ordered all the parts and got together in my basement today to build. I had folks warn me that the can won't sound as good as a commercial can. Well, I decided that a few Db's was worth $800 in savings. Now that it is built, I will tell you from first hand experience that it sounds every bit as good as my Liberty Mystic. I am not bashing the Mystic, it is my favorite can; but this one honestly sounds as good. It is shorter than the Mystic, weighs less than the Mystic, and costs a lot less than the Mystic. It took me about 2.5 hrs to build and only 1 month to wait for. Basically any bore size is able to be created, I just did a .30 to use with .308 and 300blk.
The materials used were Ti for the tube and spacers. Al endcaps (which could also be Ti if I want), and steel baffles (engine block freeze plugs).
The final can weighs in at 16.01oz and is 8 1/16" without a brake. It will support full auto.
Here are some picks of the build and I will post some videos of it in action. I plan on building more cans with varying bore sizes. I am $400 lazy enough to want a dedicated can for my main weapons so I don't have to take them off for another weapon.
Here are the steps in a very shortened version:
First we cut the baffle bore with a centering tool and 1/8 bit. We then pressed the baffle with a 45 taper, then a 60. Finally we cut the bore to .368 with a bit. Also cut the end cap bore. Every baffle and end cap was checked and re-checked with mike's by two people.
Next we cut the Ti spacers and blast chamber; then sanded the OD to fit perfectly in the tube ID.
Next we test fit and verified the bore lined up with the firearms bore.
Finally, we engraved them at my office with a 1/4mm bit and my dental drill.
Test fired, and everything worked! The can is very quiet with .22lr, 300blk, hearing safe with 223, 223fa, and 308. I plan on making a 9mm can and possibly a 22.
Feel free to ask questions, berate and denigrate, congratulate, etc... I am pleased with my investment and plan on doing more. The price is right, the quality is good, it is able to come apart for cleaning , is comparable to commercial cans, and is a fun weekend project.
Materials
Cutting 1/8" bore
Pressing 45 degree taper
Pressing 60 degree taper so the bore is .350-.360. (Larger is ok, but will allow more gas to escape for a .30cal)
Final drill the bore to .368
Sanding OD of Ti spacer. Spacers were cut using pipe cutter. Various sizes were used to stagger the baffles. The blast chamber took the longest "spacer".
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