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Got a REAL stumper for the experts

My F-150 did the same thing. I am running a K&N Filter and the oil built up over time on the throttle plate and caused exactly what you are describing. I just removed the TB and cleaned it with a rag with Isoproply Alcohol and it has ran fine since.
 
I had a similar problem on a Chevy Tahoe. Took it to the dealer and had Throttle Body Cleaned.$100 and it was fixed.. My symptoms were: truck battery voltage would drop when I applied the brakes.. Truck ran great on the gas but idled as if it wanted to cut off.. Happened a couple of times thru the years I had it.. Each time I had the throttle body cleaned and it fixed it. Not sure, just giving you some options

Did not see your post. Sorry.
 
Ok, so, drumrolllll!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I found a new problem and possible cause of my woes?

Burnt up harness going to, of all things, the oil pressure switch- which is a tandem circuit for the fuel pump power feed.

How much you wanna bet Im getting low voltage to the pump?

Wonder what else ties into that circuit...
 
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/travist80/2009-01-22_232113_Graphic.gif
2009-01-22_232113_Graphic.jpg
 
A quote from the subject on another forum i found: based on other schematics for the 3 wire sending unit as pertaining to the Fuel delivery:

" There ARE three wires at the oil switch. The third one (tan) is for the gage. Apparently you don't know what parallel and series circuits are. If you did you would see that both the relay AND the switch would have to be open, meaning no power can go through them, in order for there to be no power at B2. Aside from that the terminal B2 that you mention is a VOLTAGE MONITOR. It is an input, not an output. It does not control the relay. When the ECM senses high or low voltage it adjusts the injectors for more or less fuel.''
 
according to that schematic, it shows to be JUST a switch, a backup for the fuel pump key on relay. Truck starts with it unplugged and the wires un-shorted, same problem though.
 
Stupid question, I know you checked fuel pressure, did you check for volume? You can have correct pressure and not enough flow, bad pump,restriction in the lines, even a gas cap that is not venting(causes a vacuum in the tank) Just throwing out some thoughts. ALso as Ken mentioned Fuel pressure regulator.
 
Ya know, I haven't been able to find ANY volume testing info on these pumps.
I would think if volume was a problem, i'd see it on the needle when loading the engine?

I did a couple purge tests like you would do on a MPFI, but got a few tablespoons per 30 seconds out of the purge with engine idling. I was suspect of that, but since there's no data for purge test with engine running...

I've got a buddy with a 305 TBI caprice i've gotta look at today anyhow. I might test his fuel pressure and do a purge while idle comparison. His engine isn't entirely stock, but it runs really well, so I figure it'd be a decent comparison.

Reckon i should just run the purge with KOEO and fuel pump relay bypassed?
 
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