• ODT Gun Show & Swap Meet - May 4, 2024! - Click here for info

I am baffled at sighting in my rifle

No, I know it isn't rising. That's why I am baffled.

I will start at 100 yards tomorrow, get it dead on, and then move closer, instead of starting close and moving out. We'll see what that does.
Its not "rising" - but it is shot at an arc - it's only going to be "dead on" at two distances in the arc - just keep that in mind or you will continuously be adjusting your sights. . .

It shouldn't baffle you, look at the chart - your rifle is doing exactly what it is supposed to do . . . 25yd zero - at 125yds should be roughly 7.7" high . . .
 
Millions of servicemen and women have zeroed the M16 at 25 meters so as to be dead bang on target at 300 meters. Battle sight zero.
With a near zero at 25 meters your bullet should (or would likely) impact (POI) a target about 7.7" above the point of aim (POA) at 109 meters or 120 yards. As others have said, perfectly normal.
 
Millions of servicemen and women have zeroed the M16 at 25 meters so as to be dead bang on target at 300 meters. Battle sight zero.
With a near zero at 25 meters your bullet should (or would likely) impact (POI) a target about 7.7" above the point of aim (POA) at 109 meters or 120 yards. As others have said, perfectly normal.

Yup.
 
If you zeroed at 30 yards:
Inside of 30 yards you point of impact will be below your point of aim
At 30 yards your point of impact will equal your point of aim
Beyond 30 yards your point of impact is going to be above you point of aim incrementally increasing out to a specified range depending on the round you are shooting
Eventually your point of impact will be back in line with your point of aim
Beyond that your point of impact is always going to be increasingly below your point of aim

The one exception to the above when shooting 5.56 is zeroing at 100 yards. In that case your point of impact is going to be below your point of aim, starting at the max distance of your optical offset at close range (5 yards and in), incrementally decreasing to point of impact/aim being equal at 100 yards. Beyond 100 yards the point of impact will always be below the point of aim, incrementally increasing as range increases.

Google "Optical Offset" for starters and go from there. Your optic and rifle are doing exactly what you told it do when you zeroed it.
 
I will start at 100 yards tomorrow, get it dead on, and then move closer, instead of starting close and moving out. We'll see what that does.

If you zero at 100 yards using 5.56. Inside of that range the bullet impact is ALWAYS going to be below your point of aim, unless you hold over. Beyond 100 yards (or so close it won't matter much) your point of impact is ALWAYS going to be below your point of aim, unless you hold over.

Zero you rifle at what ever distance best fits your needs, taking into account optical offset and round choice. But you are always going to be holding over inside of your zero point, and eventually holding over at some distance, depending on the range of your initial zero.

A lot of people zero at 50 yards because the point of impact = point of aim at 50 yards and about 230 yards (assuming 55 grain 5.56 and a 16 inch barrel). In between 50 and 230 yards the max rise of the bullet above the point of aim is about 2 inches (assuming an optical offset of 2.25 inches, the standard height of an A2 front sight post above the center line of the barrel bore) . So from 50 to 230, put it where you want it to hit and be done with it. Inside of 50, same same until you get within 10 yards or so then hold over up to the max height of your optical offset at close range.

I am a 100 yard zero man myself. Hold over at extreme close range. Hold true out to 100 yards. Hold over beyond 100 yards.
 
I just took delivery on one of those Burris 30 mm TAC scopes that Cabela's had on sale last week. I installed it on a Colt carbine and took it out today. The bullet drop reticule is designed for a 100 yard zero. All shots beyond can be made using the dots under the center (X&Y) dot to compensate for bullet drop. The ballistics of 5.56 and 7.62 are so close as to make little difference if using one or the other. CQB27's advice is solid.
 
I just took delivery on one of those Burris 30 mm TAC scopes that Cabela's had on sale last week. I installed it on a Colt carbine and took it out today. The bullet drop reticule is designed for a 100 yard zero. All shots beyond can be made using the dots under the center (X&Y) dot to compensate for bullet drop. The ballistics of 5.56 and 7.62 are so close as to make little difference if using one or the other. CQB27's advice is solid.
Almost all optics with range stadia lines that are below the center cross/dot/chevron are based on a 100 yard zero these days. Makes life very simple beyond 100 yards........as long as you can accurately estimate range to your target, lol. But that's another thread for another day.
 
Almost all optics with range stadia lines that are below the center cross/dot/chevron are based on a 100 yard zero these days. Makes life very simple beyond 100 yards........as long as you can accurately estimate range to your target, lol. But that's another thread for another day.
Right. There is usually something in the subtends or widths of elements of the reticule that will aid in range estimation if you do a little homework at 100 yards with cardboard squares of known dimensions. It's just math and known measurements of observed objects after that.
 
Right. There is usually something in the subtends or widths of elements of the reticule that will aid in range estimation if you do a little homework at 100 yards with cardboard squares of known dimensions. It's just math and known measurements of observed objects after that.
Yep. In the higher quality optics, or maybe I should say higher priced instead (LOL), the width of the stadia line is usually equivalent to the width of a standard man's shoulders at that specific range. So, match the man's shoulder width with the correct width stadia line, hold center mass and let it rip.
 
Back
Top Bottom