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major a/c work

Before I unload it would be great if you can add to the conversation in a positive way to help out..Rather than that kind of statement. Please enlighten us, I for one stated I knew nothing about the newer vehicles

OK I'm going to be as helpful as possible...
The OP had AutoZone suggest the problem...they sell parts they DO NOT diagnose or fix cars.....go to a good AC shop

then the OP said it either needs a compressor or the freon "pumped out and redid"......uh, that makes no sense. Go to a good AC shop

another poster suggested Googling "black death" for his car models AC....I have been in this business for 30 years, worked for 2 of the best AC shops in the metro until I started my own place 17 years ago and I have no clue what "black death"is. Probably where lazy mechanics dont properly and thoroughly flush a system after a compressor has gone bad.......again seek out a good AC shop

another poster related that he drained and refilled the freon...replaced the compressor all because the compressor wouldnt engage. He finally found a connector issue(common) and ran a new wire to fix it.....coulda saved a lot of time money and energy at a good AC shop

You mentioned you jumped a switch on your older car but didnt know about the newer ones....OK jumping things is a no no anymore. Thats a good way to zap an ECM, BCM or other computer driven power module or component. There might be as many as 10 or more inputs the ECM looks for before it will allow AC operation. Now days a high end scanner is required to see what the ECM sees and start making decisions on which way to go to diagnose the issue. Bear in mind todays compressors are not like they used to be. Many many modern compressors use pressure switches or valves to move the swash plate and vary their displacement. Meaning move more or less freon depending on the cooling load at any given time. Lets not forget that the fans need to be working properly and the condenser and rad need to be clear of any obstruction so air can flow through them.....

Long story made short....seek out a good shop that can do this stuff. Save yourself time money and aggravation.


I'm done. Good luck to the OP hope you get it cool soon.

Oh yeah
PS
A compressor job done correctly, with a NEW(rebuilts suck and dont last) compressor and drier, flush, oil and freon can cost 800-1200 and should get you a 1 to 2 year warranty
 
OK I'm going to be as helpful as possible...
The OP had AutoZone suggest the problem...they sell parts they DO NOT diagnose or fix cars.....go to a good AC shop

then the OP said it either needs a compressor or the freon "pumped out and redid"......uh, that makes no sense. Go to a good AC shop

another poster suggested Googling "black death" for his car models AC....I have been in this business for 30 years, worked for 2 of the best AC shops in the metro until I started my own place 17 years ago and I have no clue what "black death"is. Probably where lazy mechanics dont properly and thoroughly flush a system after a compressor has gone bad.......again seek out a good AC shop

another poster related that he drained and refilled the freon...replaced the compressor all because the compressor wouldnt engage. He finally found a connector issue(common) and ran a new wire to fix it.....coulda saved a lot of time money and energy at a good AC shop

You mentioned you jumped a switch on your older car but didnt know about the newer ones....OK jumping things is a no no anymore. Thats a good way to zap an ECM, BCM or other computer driven power module or component. There might be as many as 10 or more inputs the ECM looks for before it will allow AC operation. Now days a high end scanner is required to see what the ECM sees and start making decisions on which way to go to diagnose the issue. Bear in mind todays compressors are not like they used to be. Many many modern compressors use pressure switches or valves to move the swash plate and vary their displacement. Meaning move more or less freon depending on the cooling load at any given time. Lets not forget that the fans need to be working properly and the condenser and rad need to be clear of any obstruction so air can flow through them.....

Long story made short....seek out a good shop that can do this stuff. Save yourself time money and aggravation.


I'm done. Good luck to the OP hope you get it cool soon.

Oh yeah
PS
A compressor job done correctly, with a NEW(rebuilts suck and dont last) compressor and drier, flush, oil and freon can cost 800-1200 and should get you a 1 to 2 year warranty
Well done Sir and I appreciate you valued info and suggestions..That is what makes this site such an asset to it's members..Valuable knowledge to help those on this site..
 
OK I'm going to be as helpful as possible...
The OP had AutoZone suggest the problem...they sell parts they DO NOT diagnose or fix cars.....go to a good AC shop

then the OP said it either needs a compressor or the freon "pumped out and redid"......uh, that makes no sense. Go to a good AC shop

another poster suggested Googling "black death" for his car models AC....I have been in this business for 30 years, worked for 2 of the best AC shops in the metro until I started my own place 17 years ago and I have no clue what "black death"is. Probably where lazy mechanics dont properly and thoroughly flush a system after a compressor has gone bad.......again seek out a good AC shop

another poster related that he drained and refilled the freon...replaced the compressor all because the compressor wouldnt engage. He finally found a connector issue(common) and ran a new wire to fix it.....coulda saved a lot of time money and energy at a good AC shop

You mentioned you jumped a switch on your older car but didnt know about the newer ones....OK jumping things is a no no anymore. Thats a good way to zap an ECM, BCM or other computer driven power module or component. There might be as many as 10 or more inputs the ECM looks for before it will allow AC operation. Now days a high end scanner is required to see what the ECM sees and start making decisions on which way to go to diagnose the issue. Bear in mind todays compressors are not like they used to be. Many many modern compressors use pressure switches or valves to move the swash plate and vary their displacement. Meaning move more or less freon depending on the cooling load at any given time. Lets not forget that the fans need to be working properly and the condenser and rad need to be clear of any obstruction so air can flow through them.....

Long story made short....seek out a good shop that can do this stuff. Save yourself time money and aggravation.


I'm done. Good luck to the OP hope you get it cool soon.

Oh yeah
PS
A compressor job done correctly, with a NEW(rebuilts suck and dont last) compressor and drier, flush, oil and freon can cost 800-1200 and should get you a 1 to 2 year warranty
Or, you could Google Honda ac black death. Now you've heard of it.
 
First off it kills me to see just how many dont know the correct way to repair or fix a system..let me enlighten all that matters..If a mech says he fixed it with stop leak..stop payment! if he added refrigerant and didnt leak check it ..stop payment...repair means removal of refrigerant in an environmentally friendly way..not a cloud of white smoke.. repairs are then to be made and diagnosed properly which includes various temp meters and gauges which results in lines or fittings to be replaced(leak) if inoperable compressors and safety switches etc. evacuation of system after checked for leaks with dry nitrogen and evacuated once more to provide a dry moisture free environment for the refrigerant to live in (moisture is a system killer and potential future problem) and then and only then can the system be recharged and proper oil level added, any questions or comments ..i will consult for free
 
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