My 87 Cutty

[Wallace's]

^ badass!

Hell yes it is!

 

[Sowega86]

Just in time, the Moultrie, Ga. Automotive Swap Meet begins tomorrow: http://www.moultrieswapmeet.com/

 

[Mr. Goodbar]

Put some rally's on it, had a 86 cutlass original 87xxx miles on it with the same engine except mine was a soft top I removed and primed and painted myself to a hardtop

 

[Bagman]

Nice. Back when cars were still easy to work on. Start with the motor, get it purring and then go from there.

 

[Bass Akwards]

This^^^

Also note, 88's were the only year of the fugly Euro front end. Most can be identified by the grill. The pattern of them dictate year....if original. 83' being my favorite.

Also, if you are pulling that 307 out, don't waste any money on it unless you want it all original (I see no value add). 307's are very low output, horrid fuel economy, and do not sound that great with exhaust. There are little to no performance parts for it, nor could the block/crank/rods with stand much more the the lousy power they make. Installing a SBC would not be a big ordeal. The K member in those cars have holes in them to accommodate nearly all SB GM V8's, even the old ****ty 301 Pontiac motors. Bolting in

My advice would be, to keep it simple, just get a used or rebuild 350 and 700r4 with a shift kit. Would have way better power potential and parts availability. The overdrive would help on the highway as well since those cars rear ends are in the low 2.xx I believe.

I favor a lowered car with TTII's (although it will ruin the great ride quality those things have). They look great dropped and with this combo. I had an 86' with 17" TTII's but sold it for profit. Had I kept it, I would have definitely lowered it.

One of the best looking 80's cars IMHO.

Below is my old 86'

View attachment 1051000
View attachment 1051006

The Hp is around 140, honestly, I was kinda bummed when I first read that. You are correct, after searching, there are not a lot of performance parts for it. Now, I am not sure which way to go.
It wont be too bad cost wise, to change out all of the bolt on parts ( alt, water pump, starter..etc) everything works, but I know I have mental issues with **** that does not work, so I plan on changing everything out. The valves stem seals are leaking, so down to the heads this rebuild will need to go that I am aware of at this point.
The 442 is (If what I have read is correct) is 170 hp with the same 307?. Any input on that?
All said and done, I do not want a slow ride, or a drag car either, something in the middle with some balls when I hit the gas.
Where should I start, if I decide to go the 350 route?
I like the look of your car, clean....

 

[Wallace's]

The Hp is around 140, honestly, I was kinda bummed when I first read that. You are correct, after searching, there are not a lot of performance parts for it. Now, I am not sure which way to go.
It wont be too bad cost wise, to change out all of the bolt on parts ( alt, water pump, starter..etc) everything works, but I know I have mental issues with **** that does not work, so I plan on changing everything out. The valves stem seals are leaking, so down to the heads this rebuild will need to go that I am aware of at this point.
The 442 is (If what I have read is correct) is 170 hp with the same 307?. Any input on that?
All said and done, I do not want a slow ride, or a drag car either, something in the middle with some balls when I hit the gas.
Where should I start, if I decide to go the 350 route?
I like the look of your car, clean....

The 307 "HO" in the 442 is a turd as well. I have not had one, but its the same block.

Try browsing CL or race junk for some descent motors/trans that could be ready to go. 300-350 hp would probably make you happy in that car, but not be so powerful that you just roast tires every time you step on it.

Also, go to Summit and request a catalog. Years and years ago, they use to have some descent long block and complete engine deals.

I would personally start with fluids/brakes/suspension stuff → (drain/clean that tank and replace your fuel filter AFTER cleaning the lines. Nothing would suck worse that putting a nice new/rebuild motor in and then clogging up carb's jets or loosing enough fuel pressure due to dirty lines/clogged filter to kill power) rear end gear oil, brake fluid, trans fluid if you keep that 307, pads/rotors/drums/shoes, rubber brake lines, checking and replacing control arm bushings, sway bar bushing, shocks, ball joints, wheel bearing, etc...as you find them that need replacement and get that out of the way (relatively easy stuff). Doing this may also lend you to find other problems you may not have know needing addressing quickly (corroded fuel lines, damaged brakes lines, chipped gear teeth in the rear end, excessive "shavings/dust" on the magnet in the trans pan, etc..)


Once that was out of the way, I would move on to addressing the motor. Then, paint towards the end.

I am no expert on this, but we did a few swaps with my fathers hot rods years ago. It is fun to tinker with them and learn things as you go.

Also, there are quite a few car guys on here much more experienced then me. Maybe they can eventually chime in to offer opinions as well.

 

[Codyt57]

http://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/3322-atl/1988-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme-classic

here's a cream puff i sold a while back...... yes it only had 1200 original miles

 

[Bass Akwards]

http://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/3322-atl/1988-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme-classic

here's a cream puff i sold a while back...... yes it only had 1200 original miles

saweeet

 

[hops2899]

Know of any good resources to get parts?

PM me, I can help with parts.

 

[78Bronco]

That's cool! Gonna be a fun project and something your son can enjoy too, can't beat that man.