There is still a little bit of flat left to grab on to or if nothing else use a pipe wrench its all ready broke beyond repair. I would also contact dead air and ask they may offer a replacement.
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I noticed there were some very small flats left. I put the wrench back on it and I am starting to think it maybe WAY over torqued and my wrench maybe the suspect (well at least the cause). Not sure its coming off. That joker is on there. I tried to remove a lug nut at 35 ft lbs and the damn thing broke free before my wrench clicked. I didnt think I put that much force on it but maybe I did or at least its starting to look that way. The action never spun in the vise and it didn't seem like that much torque. But obviously I am starting to think it was.
Might be (past) time for a professional.
Anyone know if you can cut and rethread a barrel with "parts" of the muzzle brake still on? Its currently 24" inches and knocking a few off wouldnt hurt my feelings.
Anyone know if you can cut and rethread a barrel with "parts" of the muzzle brake still on? Its currently 24" inches and knocking a few off wouldnt hurt my feelings.
I know some tool teucks, snap on etc..., have a torque wrwnch tester
Alright guys its definitely professional time. I believe this guy is torqued way too tight.
I tried a pipe wrench and it just slid. Then tried a wrench with a big breaker bar and the brake flats started to deform. This thing seems to be essentially welded. Definitely (past) time for a pro. I can admit defeat even though its 24 hours too late.
I tried a pipe wrench and it just slid. Then tried a wrench with a big breaker bar and the brake flats started to deform. This thing seems to be essentially welded. Definitely (past) time for a pro. I can admit defeat even though its 24 hours too late.
Contact a shop that does aviation and aerospace contract work. They can tell you who they use.
Click wrenches are notorious for developing accuracy issues. Beam wrenches hold accuracy better if not damaged.
It appears that muzzle device may have had stress risers from the machining process. It may be you did not over torque at all, just a manufacturing defect.
35 foot pounds is a fair amount of torque, and with no stretch from bolt length, torque will skyrocket as you continue to tighten once minimum torque is reached.
I have had use MAP gas to heat a muzzle brake before to get them off. The trick is to move the torch constantly around he brake so the barrel doesn't heat up. It will swell enough to come right off then. Except for water all things expand when heated. It can't help but move if you heat it right. I guess the second part is getting a good grip on the brake or what's left. If you don't have the right tools then Dobbs Defense is the best option. If you haven't messed with heat before then don't mess with it.
