Need some help (please)

[jon-d]

Contact a shop that does aviation and aerospace contract work. They can tell you who they use.

Click wrenches are notorious for developing accuracy issues. Beam wrenches hold accuracy better if not damaged.

It appears that muzzle device may have had stress risers from the machining process. It may be you did not over torque at all, just a manufacturing defect.

35 foot pounds is a fair amount of torque, and with no stretch from bolt length, torque will skyrocket as you continue to tighten once minimum torque is reached.

I appreciate all your help!

When I was putting it on the amount of torque “felt” right and I didn’t get the feeling I was going overboard. But now that I am trying to remove it, it seems like my tools or the flats are going to give up first. I don’t believe I have a tool around that will remove it.

 

[jon-d]

I have had use MAP gas to heat a muzzle brake before to get them off. The trick is to move the torch constantly around he brake so the barrel doesn't heat up. It will swell enough to come right off then. Except for water all things expand when heated. It can't help but move if you heat it right. I guess the second part is getting a good grip on the brake or what's left. If you don't have the right tools then Dobbs Defense is the best option. If you haven't messed with heat before then don't mess with it.

I don’t have enough comfort with it to do it. Given my luck so far I am going to give up and let a professional handle it. Kind of wanted to get it cut back to 20” anyway.

 

[jon-d]

You fubar'ed the brake so just grind two lands and remove.....also the flat area that you had been using to tighten/torque from was not intended for that! it is for directing your expelled gas in a one or more given direction.

Not being a jerk but where the hell else was I supposed to torque this brake it has no other flats. That’s one part I didn’t think I did wrong.

 

[Allsmiles]

Contact DeadAir, they are in Lawrenceville, GA.
https://deadairsilencers.com/about-dead-air/

 

[Nonliberal]

Going to give him a call once the shop opens. Thanks!

Shamon, we've dealt with this at least a hundred times before. Even had to weld a bar across one to get it loose before.

 

[Nonliberal]

Contact DeadAir, they are in Lawrenceville, GA.
https://deadairsilencers.com/about-dead-air/

I'd do this too. Chances are they give you a replacement. Folks up there are easy to deal with and always been helpful in my experience with them.

 

[coach482]

Heat the break with a small torch and vise grips.

 

[jon-d]

Shamon, we've dealt with this at least a hundred times before. Even had to weld a bar across one to get it loose before.

Sending it to Nonliberal after speaking with him on the phone this morning. I believe this is my best option.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions!!!

 

[MegaFan]

I tried to remove a lug nut at 35 ft lbs and the damn thing broke free before my wrench clicked.

From your wording above, it sounds as if you have used the torque wrench in the past to remove previously torqued components. One absolute no-no in most manufacturing and assembly shops, especially when dealing with calibrated torque wrenches, is to NEVER use the torque wrench for removal due to potential damage to the tool, resulting in significant errors to the indicated vs. applied torque. This recommendation, just like always returning the torque wrench to its un-torqued (no tension) setting for long term storage, are just two of many recommendations for the proper use of torque wrenches.

 

[41mag]

I have sent my torque wrenches to Dynamic Instruments(?) in Florida, they calibrate quality tools.
I sent them 3 Snap-On wrenches and a Fluke 88 meter (all at the same time) and they do an awesome job for a very resonable price.
They send them back with certificates and calbration sheets.

I can probably get the info for them out of my tool box if you want it. I think it was about $25-$30 per torque wrench and like $40 for the Fluke. They tested all leads and accessories too. Fast turn around, quality packaging for return shipping, etc.,