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New Build for my Hoe!

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speed Engineering headers are a tight fit but awesome!
 
I hope you didn't put beehive springs in there. That's the worst thing you can do if you put a good sized bumpstick. I have had to go into several motors and replace with double springs because the beehive doesn't have a back up flat spring. Not one for stiffness but just a backup spring. All these LS guys say use beehive spring because they will take up to .600 lift. Two of the three engines I changed the springs out it has just under .600 lift. They are strong up to about .222-.224 lift and will allow higher RPM's on those lift numbers but if you get up around .600-.700 lift and have ARP rod bolt you can spool those engines up to 7500 to 8000 RPM. They will do 7200 with the factory. With those high lift cams even though they are made from chrome silicone the compress the spring to much. I have seen the beehives break under 3500 RPM.As expensive as it is to repair that damage I can't see why in the world builders would put beehives in at over .228 duration. I put a .232-.234 duration .595-.600 lift and with titanium retainers that engine would spool to 8000 grand.

I built my car for handling, and light street use with a 6 speed so I did't put a 12 bolt in it. I had to leave like a grand ma off the line so I wouldn't break the 10 bolt so I could only get down to 12 second quarter but my trap speed was 130 MPH. My trap speed was 15 to 20 MPH faster than the 10 sec. cars. LOL That was a fun car to drive. I outran so many Corvettes on the street. I sent a lot of vette owners home sulking because I pulled them so hard on the highway.
I used LS9 springs and low lift Comp Cams Mutha thumper cam..the ole black hoe was meant for good sounding 450hp +bump up from stock but drivable showable Tahoe..Ive made 1000 HP with other builds this is just an attention getter...the motor I pulled out will have twin T85s and some serious HP in something a bit smaller..and lighter say a 240z or another starion.
 
The Tools used for this build are a hand made engine hoist built my my father Ron and me in the garage with scrap metal and a 50$ ram from Harbor freight and casters from an old Federal reserve money cart rated for 2 thousand pounds.. we fab all our tools..the engine stand was bought by my wife for my first birthday with her as a couple 30 years ago.
 
I used LS9 springs and low lift Comp Cams Mutha thumper cam..the ole black hoe was meant for good sounding 450hp +bump up from stock but drivable showable Tahoe..Ive made 1000 HP with other builds this is just an attention getter...the motor I pulled out will have twin T85s and some serious HP in something a bit smaller..and lighter say a 240z or another starion.

Ah..I had 2, 72’ 240’s with just mild built 350’s, they were very quick cars. Probably 300hp,, but quick!
Sold them both like a dummy back around 89. Hard to find car now days. Very nice work, Sir!
 
Ah..I had 2, 72’ 240’s with just mild built 350’s, they were very quick cars. Probably 300hp,, but quick!
Sold them both like a dummy back around 89. Hard to find car now days. Very nice work, Sir!
Great cars Mom and Dad used to auto cross them back in the 70s when new.Mom had the 240 twin Webers and cam and exhaust work Dad raced a 914 2.0 gray model and won several races . it runs in the family
 
keep your stuff add in the ECM and harness ( donor car/truck or kit) the swap kit tells you what you can use..basically you need a hot and ground and switch to run the ECM and you can blue tooth the tune from iphone or equivalent. just research and watch vid on the U tube for general over view.
That engine won't even start without a base tune. You always have to tune those engines to get the HP out of them or else don't even waste your time. The are torque limits that limit the torque for warranty reasons. Those table have to be zeroed out, timing at WOT has to modified immensely. AFR has to leaned at idle. Remember it takes more fuel to idle smoothly and less to lop and chop but they need gobbs of fuel up top. Then the VE tables have to be smoothed or you will get crap gas mileage. After all my mods and over 450 at the wheels I still got 22 MPG on the highway. I would venture to say you will need bigger injectors. That will need to worked out mathematically but the tuner will do that. I think you need to enter pulse rate, lbs.per hour, cubic inches and it auto calculates it for you. That's the easiest part of tuning there is. Make sure to ask for that info when you buy the injectors. Most of the time they send you a box of injectors in plastic bags with no info. I tuned my own so I could go on for hours about tuning but YES it will need to be tuned. Oh then then the MAF has to be tuned as well.
 
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