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Red dot zeroing


Yep. This takes advantage of the battle sight zero characteristics of the AR-15 pattern rifle. I don't personally prefer this zero, but it has advantages. This is why the original AR-15 did not have a bullet drop compensator. Zero at 300, hold dead on for every range in between. Works great if the Russians are running at you across the open fields of Western Europe.

One problem with this zero is at about 150 yards the bullet would be around 6-7 high; if the bad guy is just peeping over cover you'll shoot over him.
 
Just my thinking here

many red dots are 2moa, that’s 2” at 100yds.

50/200 makes the most sense. You’re ~1” low at 25 yards, ~1” high at 100 yards. Meaning: You’re still within your dot.

As always, YMMV
yep an old sage taught me the 1 inch low at 25 many years ago.
 
At what velocity?? If zeroed at 25 yards, even a pistol bullet limping along at a slow 850 fps shot from a 4" barrel will only drop about 17 1/2" at 100 yards (give or take a couple inches depending on bullet weight).

"Only drop about 17.5" << That's a lot of room for error and it gets worse the farther out the target. Run it through a ballistic calculator. Shorter zeros compromise longer distances and the type of sight is also a huge factor. 50/200 zero or 36/300 zero work excellent in most cases. Just depends on what the shooter's max is.
 
I sight my AR's using the 50 yard zero, which at a 25 yard indoor range means sighting it 1.2" low at 25... That should put you dead on at 50 yards, and have your point of aim within 3" of your point of impact from point blank out to about 200 yards.

My Sig M18 with the Leupold Deltapoint Pro I have zero'd at 25 yards. Has me maybe an inch low at 10 yards, which is close enough...
 
Personally, I zero my red dot at 100 and my irons at 36. I tend to alternate to my offset irons so my view is un-obscured by an optic. At close range there's really no need to look through the sites.
 
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The other day I shot a friend's AR rifle, a flat top with a SiG Romeo red dot sight mounted on it.

He does all his shooting at 5 to 15 yards to simulate combat conditions in and around his home. So, he had chosen to zero the rifle to be dead on perfect at 7 yards.

Well at 25 yards it was quite high (but still usable if you knew where to hold well below the target).
But at 50 yards we determined it was shooting about 4 feet high and 100 yards it was hitting 8 feet above the point of aim. This was ridiculously high --it basically made the weapon unusable at those distances.
 
The other day I shot a friend's AR rifle, a flat top with a SiG Romeo red dot sight mounted on it.

He does all his shooting at 5 to 15 yards to simulate combat conditions in and around his home. So, he had chosen to zero the rifle to be dead on perfect at 7 yards.

Well at 25 yards it was quite high (but still usable if you knew where to hold well below the target).
But at 50 yards we determined it was shooting about 4 feet high and 100 yards it was hitting 8 feet above the point of aim. This was ridiculously high --it basically made the weapon unusable at those distances.
And if he zerod it at 100 yards, the round would impact roughly 3 inches low at 7 yards. People put way too much effort into zeros that don't work.
 
I prefer the 100 yard zero for my AR's. It seems the easiest, and least likely for me to screw up.

I also prefer a LPVO instead of red dots, but basic principles of zeroing are the same.

This chart is pretty good. It seems to be really close to the results I get with my guns. Of course ammunition selection and other variables can come into play and change things a little bit, but it is pretty close.

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