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Replacement Fuel Pump Question...
- Thread starter militaryrednek
- Start date
ughhhh so i get my bed off (slid back really lol) and i see this.....
my pump is halfway inbetween the cab and the bed lol. damn 4 door truck! so i dropped the tank some so i could get the pump out. that damn lock ring was a ***** to get off....many a swear words was said.
and after i finally get it in and all back together. it starts up after a few cranks, which i was expecting cause the fuel lines where empty. runs ok, but has a miss at low idle speeds and if left idling for awhile will drop about 100rpm idle. so i went up to autozone and got the codes read. had the one about the injectors to far out which is from the fuel pump and was a to be expected code. then it had a random misfire, to be expected. then it also had 2 codes for a misfire in #5, and one in #8. so i got a new coil for #5, and probably going to get one for #8 next week (40 bucks a pop). still trying to get my brother with all his awesome dealer scanner stuff to come over so i can drive with it all connected to see exactly what its doing. hopefully i didnt break a injector (or more) when the pump whent out.
i believe i didnt get the pump back in right. i think i messed up putting the lock ring on or the O-ring because now it takes forever to start up and chugalugs to life. but once its running, its fine. if you turn it off, then right back on, it starts right back up like a champ. if you let it sit for a little bit it goes back to a long start up. the only thing i can think of is a messed up that seal and i have a air leak thats causing it to not keep the fuel lines charged. i did decide to break the connector to the tank for the fuel line (go me! lol) that goes from the tank to the filter, and im not paying over 250 for a fuel line from the dealer (only way they order it is the complete lines) so i got some injector line and ran it from the tank to the line (i cut off the connector) and doesnt leak a bit.
so needless to say, next week im taking the bed back off and dropping the tank completly. i dont have the small hands to just drop the tank and get my big ass hands in there for all the connections to the tank. theres not alot of wiggle room with the connections. got to make sure everythings seated right for a airtight seal.
im getting more gray hair from this than my girlfriend gives me.....
my pump is halfway inbetween the cab and the bed lol. damn 4 door truck! so i dropped the tank some so i could get the pump out. that damn lock ring was a ***** to get off....many a swear words was said.
and after i finally get it in and all back together. it starts up after a few cranks, which i was expecting cause the fuel lines where empty. runs ok, but has a miss at low idle speeds and if left idling for awhile will drop about 100rpm idle. so i went up to autozone and got the codes read. had the one about the injectors to far out which is from the fuel pump and was a to be expected code. then it had a random misfire, to be expected. then it also had 2 codes for a misfire in #5, and one in #8. so i got a new coil for #5, and probably going to get one for #8 next week (40 bucks a pop). still trying to get my brother with all his awesome dealer scanner stuff to come over so i can drive with it all connected to see exactly what its doing. hopefully i didnt break a injector (or more) when the pump whent out.
i believe i didnt get the pump back in right. i think i messed up putting the lock ring on or the O-ring because now it takes forever to start up and chugalugs to life. but once its running, its fine. if you turn it off, then right back on, it starts right back up like a champ. if you let it sit for a little bit it goes back to a long start up. the only thing i can think of is a messed up that seal and i have a air leak thats causing it to not keep the fuel lines charged. i did decide to break the connector to the tank for the fuel line (go me! lol) that goes from the tank to the filter, and im not paying over 250 for a fuel line from the dealer (only way they order it is the complete lines) so i got some injector line and ran it from the tank to the line (i cut off the connector) and doesnt leak a bit.
so needless to say, next week im taking the bed back off and dropping the tank completly. i dont have the small hands to just drop the tank and get my big ass hands in there for all the connections to the tank. theres not alot of wiggle room with the connections. got to make sure everythings seated right for a airtight seal.
im getting more gray hair from this than my girlfriend gives me.....
Dorman makes repair kits for these plastic fuel lines. From the sounds of it you have a leak (fuel pressure dropping when powered off) causing extended crank time. It is very easy to damage the fitting on the new pump where the line connects, a small crack will cause pressure drop you describe.
I hope that is not the case. The tank seal should not cause starting issues but will set an evap large leak code. The system needs to be sealed for vapor recovery.
I hope that is not the case. The tank seal should not cause starting issues but will set an evap large leak code. The system needs to be sealed for vapor recovery.
I went through the Misfires with my f'ed 150. I replaced all the coil packs several times because of misfire codes. Ended up trading the POS for a new truck, turns out the problem is with the wiring leading to the coils packs (trucks and cars) if you keep getting codes after the new ones are installed. Another one of Fords problems they ran from. Never again will I own another Ford.
Not difficult to swap the coils from the suspect cylinder to one that has no missfire code, if the missfire follows the coil then it is bad. Simple way to avoid replacing good parts.
Didn't read the whole thread, but you may have a clogged filter or injectors.
How did hey check for that? supposed to have a correct resistance to it checked with a multimeter? or just replaced and it ended up working?
it drives fine as long as i got my foot in it. doesnt like idling extended periods (stopped at light), or if im under 1500rpm driving (25-35mph just cruising slow). has a bump to it i can feel.
ya, im thinking i didnt get the tank seal set up right, so it causes all the fuel to go back in the tank and emtpy the lines, causing the long start up. i dont have a standard connection there anymore though lol, i used a brass fiting inside the OE lind connectiong to a 2ft fuel injector (less likely to collapse than standard line) line connected to the pump. Zero leaks from it, checked it before i put it back together.
ya, since it had 2 codes for the #5 misfiring, i went ahead and replaced that one. probably going to swap #8 for another one and see what happens.
already replaced filter last week.
injectors are on my suspect list now, waiting on getting ahold of my brothers scanner i can use while driving to see what they are doing.
Scanner won't show you much aside from injector pulse width (on time in mili seconds) need a low amps probe to look at the injector electrical pattern.
Injector issues are rare. Difficult to diagnose on the internet. Based on what you describe missfire codes and sluggish at lower rpm long crank time, it could be several things or just one thing. Running an engine too lean causes very high combustion tempratures and can damage spark plugs,valves,pistons etc. Anyway I would swap those coils around first to see if the missfire follows the coil. Also pull the plugs and inspect them for any damage. Could also be a restriction in the exhaust (catalytic converters) but take it one step and one issue at a time.
Injector issues are rare. Difficult to diagnose on the internet. Based on what you describe missfire codes and sluggish at lower rpm long crank time, it could be several things or just one thing. Running an engine too lean causes very high combustion tempratures and can damage spark plugs,valves,pistons etc. Anyway I would swap those coils around first to see if the missfire follows the coil. Also pull the plugs and inspect them for any damage. Could also be a restriction in the exhaust (catalytic converters) but take it one step and one issue at a time.
try wiggling the wires while it is running. I had enough of my f150 so I traded it (one payment left on it), I bought my mom a used continental it had the same issues. They took it to a Ford dealership, the guy fixed it in the wiring under the hood. He said it is a common problem and an easy fix. I took my f150 to 2 other Ford dealerships and the both wanted to replace all of the coil packs 800+ that I just replaced. My problems started when I had the spark plugs replaced. Once you move around the wiring its over.
ya, i knocked on the cats and no rattle. from my understanding, that means they are good. also if they are bad, they glow red hot when you are at operating temp and mine dont.
