I feel your pain OP... My 18 year old, high school senior, son's 2006 f150 is sitting in the driveway while he saves up for a new engine. He bought the truck with high mileage after being advised not to buy it. 8 months later and the engine is done... It's a hard lesson and one he won't forget. Especially only making a $100 a week after school...
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Seafoam?
- Thread starter Ex313
- Start date
ATF is cheaper than MMO. Drain the old oil, fill it up with ATF, idle it till it warms up, shut off and drain ATF, change filter, fill it up again with ATF, idle to again till it warms up, drain ATF, change filter and fill up with recommended oil. I've had this work several times on older vehicles. Good luck
Kerosene can work, but it has very little lubrication properties. ATF is a much better choice
The bearings and all the internal components are worn beyond reliable use, seafoam will not fix it sorry!
Getting metal shavings out is a break down and reassemble job. I would be wondering were they came from more than anything. I've done seafoam on my truck before but it's more of a carbon build up reducer than anything. I only used a portion of the can and flushed the oil a couple times after. It smoothed out the idle some
I put seafoam on a hatchet and it turned into a chainsaw
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I would get a better definition of "ruined" from Mr. Watkins.
"Ruined" can be in the eye of the beholder and a function of his pocketbook.
If there's not a rod knocking, and if there is reasonable compression on most of the cylinders, your son can probably drive it. If you have rod knocking you will know it because it sounds like someone beating on the engine with a hammer.
First, clean the engine by one of the methods above. I'd use kerosene because enough Seafoam to really flush it can get spendy.
Been there, done that, and you can buy a lot of oil for what an engine costs.
Then I would change the oil (or really refill it with oil) let it run for 15-20 minutes and see how it does. Drain that oil and replace the filter.
Then move up a couple of weights in oil. Go to a 40 weight or even a 50 weight. (Back in the day, we could buy Wolf Head straight 50 weight - we called it a "Polish ring job". I kept an old Chevy pickup with virtually no compression running for a few years on 50 weight.) You wouldn't want to do this on a good engine -the tolerances are too tight, but you are not going to tear anything up.
Buy a case of oil, put it in the trunk, and show your son how to check it, and teach him to check it every day when he starts out.
The thing is, that if it is cleaned out, and if it was running when he parked it, he can probably continue to drive it until he figures out what he wants to do.
"Ruined" can be in the eye of the beholder and a function of his pocketbook.
If there's not a rod knocking, and if there is reasonable compression on most of the cylinders, your son can probably drive it. If you have rod knocking you will know it because it sounds like someone beating on the engine with a hammer.
First, clean the engine by one of the methods above. I'd use kerosene because enough Seafoam to really flush it can get spendy.
Been there, done that, and you can buy a lot of oil for what an engine costs.
Then I would change the oil (or really refill it with oil) let it run for 15-20 minutes and see how it does. Drain that oil and replace the filter.
Then move up a couple of weights in oil. Go to a 40 weight or even a 50 weight. (Back in the day, we could buy Wolf Head straight 50 weight - we called it a "Polish ring job". I kept an old Chevy pickup with virtually no compression running for a few years on 50 weight.) You wouldn't want to do this on a good engine -the tolerances are too tight, but you are not going to tear anything up.
Buy a case of oil, put it in the trunk, and show your son how to check it, and teach him to check it every day when he starts out.
The thing is, that if it is cleaned out, and if it was running when he parked it, he can probably continue to drive it until he figures out what he wants to do.
