Spongy/Soft brakes

[36fatfriends]

Could be the booster check valve??..

Lol. Nope booster holds a vacuum. It was the MC.

 

[Bubbado52]

Just to make myself feel better I called the dealer for a quote on all the same work... Dealer quote was $1,963 for parts and $630 for labor. I spent $978 for everything which was:

2 Calipers
4 Premium rotors
pads
parking brake shoes
brake fluid
master cylinder
oil and filter
tire rotation
$130 DIY lessons learned charge

So even including the mess up of taking it to be bled I saved $1,615.

Did that price include a kiss??? When I get screwed I at least expect one.

 

[36fatfriends]

Did that price include a kiss??? When I get screwed I at least expect one.

Came with a kiss from my wife. Also I can buy more gun stuff with the money I saved and tell her, "see even though I just spent $600 on a new gun, I still saved us $1k!" And either way it didn't to me, the higher they quoted, the better I felt about my decision to do the work myself.

 

[rockyfatcat]

After thinking about this. I would change both the master cylinder and the power booster. It’ a safety issue and needs to be right. If you can do it yourself they should be about a hundred dollars or so for parts.

If it ain’t either the only thing in the system is the antilock device.

Driving with it this way is an accident waiting to happen.

 

[36fatfriends]

After thinking about this. I would change both the master cylinder and the power booster. It’ a safety issue and needs to be right. If you can do it yourself they should be about a hundred dollars or so for parts.

If it ain’t either the only thing in the system is the antilock device.

Driving with it this way is an accident waiting to happen.

assuming you only read the first post

 

[tas6691]

After thinking about this. I would change both the master cylinder and the power booster. It’ a safety issue and needs to be right. If you can do it yourself they should be about a hundred dollars or so for parts.

If it ain’t either the only thing in the system is the antilock device.

Driving with it this way is an accident waiting to happen.

How do you figure its a safety issue?? We change leaky master cylinder everyday. Only 1 I can remember in the last 10 years allowed brake fluid into the booster and it was some weird European design.

 

[tas6691]

assuming you only read the first post

3 days later....see why I avoid these!! LOL

 

[rockyfatcat]

How do you figure its a safety issue?? We change leaky master cylinder everyday. Only 1 I can remember in the last 10 years allowed brake fluid into the booster and it was some weird European design.

I have been working on my family cars for almost 50 years. Until recently I never had a bad brake booster. Within the year I had to change 2. The symptoms are a firm brake with no power, and soft almost to the floor when the engine is running.

The brake booster has diaphragms and relies on vacuum for power. If the brake is spongey with the power off I would suspect the master. As a full shotgun (replace every part) of the system replacing both would narrow it down to the antilock module.

 

[tas6691]

I have been working on my family cars for almost 50 years. Until recently I never had a bad brake booster. Within the year I had to change 2. The symptoms are a firm brake with no power, and soft almost to the floor when the engine is running.

The brake booster has diaphragms and relies on vacuum for power. If the brake is spongey with the power off I would suspect the master. As a full shotgun (replace every part) of the system replacing both would narrow it down to the antilock module.

Trust me you dont have to explain to me the symptoms of a bad booster.....1. in my 35 career I have replaced a few bad boosters. They rarely go bad.
2. there is no need to throw parts at it until its fixed nor is there any reason to replace the whole system when one part fails.....diagnose and replace the failed unit
3. the OP fixed it days before your first post......