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Synthetic Motor Oil vs Regular Motor Oil

I take what dealers(cars and bikes) say with a grain of salt. You would be staggered by some of the inaccurate, crazy stuff I have heard them say over the years...

Synthetic oil is better in every way. Flows better when cold, resists thermal breakdown longer, sticks to parts better, resists shearing better when in contact with gears... Its just better stuff.
 
This, use what the manufactor calls for they have done the R&D. Synthetic is so slick it will leak like crazy from even the smallest leaks.

it's actually not slick in that sense. But some old gaskets did react weird with it due to some of the additives. Don't think, that happens any more. So many new vehicles ship with synthetic from the factory these days...
 
A few years back I sold a 1985 Chevy Cavalier with 365,000 miles on it. My Mom bought it new, and I bought from her and commuted in it. The only oil we ever used was Castrol GTX. It used about 1/2 quart between changes at 3,000 mile intervals, no visible smoking, no leaks.

My '89 4Runner has only used Castrol GTX for the last 200K, and now has over 400K. Still has decent compression.

I've heard that older pushrod engines required zinc, but zinc was taken out since it can clog up catalytic converters. So older engines without cats may benefit from Rotella for diesels (has zinc in it) or STP oil treatment.
 
A few years back I sold a 1985 Chevy Cavalier with 365,000 miles on it. My Mom bought it new, and I bought from her and commuted in it. The only oil we ever used was Castrol GTX. It used about 1/2 quart between changes at 3,000 mile intervals, no visible smoking, no leaks.

My '89 4Runner has only used Castrol GTX for the last 200K, and now has over 400K. Still has decent compression.

I've heard that older pushrod engines required zinc, but zinc was taken out since it can clog up catalytic converters. So older engines without cats may benefit from Rotella for diesels (has zinc in it) or STP oil treatment.

I used to run Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 in my bikes. It's marketed as Diesel oil, but it has the JASO MA and MA2 motorcycle rating on it... I know a lot of guys that ran it in their racebikes for years, and it held up fine at 15,000+ RPM under demanding track conditions...
 
I've heard people swear both ways on this topic. I will stick to changing with dino and OEM filter every 3,000 miles because so far so good.
 
I have thought about switching to synthetic on my older Ford. I've read where folks say not to but never a clear reason as to why. I wouldn't mind swapping over to Mobil 1 or even the synthetic Motorcraft oil but have been hesitant to do so.
 
I’m in the nothing but synthetic crowd. Run Schaeffer’s in everything from motor to trans. I’ve got a 2010 5.4 with a ton of miles on it and still running the factory timing chain and gears and no cam phaser noise. Trans is still shifting like new. Run it in everything in my 97’ 7.3 also with a bunch of miles and still top notch shape. Been using it since 79’. I’ll pay for the extra insurance.
 
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