Need recommendation on BEST electrical diagnosis shop in N. Gwinnett

[whiskerz]

Get a incandescent (not LED ) test light , remove the negative cable from the battery
Clip the light between the battery post and the cable

If something is using juice the light will light up , and it’s brightness will be in direct proportion to the amount of juice being used

If it’s really dim just glowing slightly not much current draw
If it’s bright , something is using a lot of power

Then start at the first box and start pulling fuses while a helper watches the light
When you pull the fuse that includes whatever is draining the battery the light will go out

Now you know where to start looking
If it’s the fuse for the radio , or the fuse for the dome lights or whatever , you have narrowed it down enough to be able to know where to look for the problem

You might pull all the fuses and the light still is on which will means that whatever is draining the battery is not fed Thru the fuse box

This will include stuff like the headlights and parking lights andbrake lights
Horn etc

It could be the alternator
Removing the wire(s) from the alt will tell

This is where you start on a GM car. remove the dome light and radio fuses first and look at the rest of the fuses after that. Alternators are viable issues as stated here. Don't buy a vatozone rebuild and think you are getting quality. GM has a 50 year history of electrical problems. Do not discount anything. Also load test the battery itself.

 

[fast306stang]

This is where you start on a GM car. remove the dome light and radio fuses first and look at the rest of the fuses after that. Alternators are viable issues as stated here. Don't buy a vatozone rebuild and think you are getting quality. GM has a 50 year history of electrical problems. Do not discount anything. Also load test the battery itself.

That's something to think about too. Removing the dome light like you said bc it will be on because of the doors being open. Not sure if it would be on a timed circuit or not. Also, don't forget to pull the underhood light also if it has one.

 

[lostchild]

The light goes between the unhooked cable and the battery post

Doesn’t matter if you use positive or negative cable for the test , but it’s safer to use the neg

just remove the cable from the battery and hook one end of the test light to the battery terminal and the other end to the cable

This will require an extra clamp of some kind or some vice grips to hold the test probe to the battery terminal

It does matter about the light
It MUST be an incandescent light
An LED light will not work for this test

An older multimeter with the analog needle gauge will also work


This should show something drawing power
I once had a van that the radio was drawing enough power that it would kill the battery

I also currently have a bronco that the battery won’t last longer than a week
And I can’t find the problem

I can remove every fuse and the battery will still go dead
I think it’s the alternator

Bad battery? I've had some that voltage tested good but failed load test.