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Range Report - trying to get a rifle to group consistently

I dropped it off with the gunsmiths at Jarrett Rifles. Mr. Mike said he would suggest bedding. Mr. Jarrett suggested to recrown the barrel. I got the idea they know what they're doing, so I will leave it to them. Will let y'all know how it turns out.
 
I would not free float the barrel. My experience with the featherweight was that they needed a pressure point on the forearm
. Pretty thin barrels on those rifles. Need the action bedded for sure. Can't hurt to properly crown it.
 
I would not free float the barrel. My experience with the featherweight was that they needed a pressure point on the forearm
. Pretty thin barrels on those rifles. Need the action bedded for sure. Can't hurt to properly crown it.

My little Remington 788 .308 shot best after I bedded the action, and bedded a pressure pad at the forearm tip.
 
I would not free float the barrel. My experience with the featherweight was that they needed a pressure point on the forearm
. Pretty thin barrels on those rifles. Need the action bedded for sure. Can't hurt to properly crown it.
It's free floated now and will remain so. I agree with improved bedding and since Mr. Jarrett didn't like the crown as is, I'm fine with them redoing it. I'm just looking for consistency. I won't take a shot past 200 yards with it.
 
ETA - TLDR - A rifle I had trouble getting to group previously appeared to group well after loosening and then torquing the action screws.

I've had a SC-made Winchester Model 70 Featherweight in 257 Roberts for over 10 years. It's been a bit of a problem child because I haven't ever been able to get it to group consistently. I'd describe it as a sort of wandering zero. But the rifle is very handy, the action is my favorite, and it's got a classic look so I didn't want to give up entirely. I've tried different ammo and rings and optics. None of that seemed to work and the rifle became a bit of a safe queen as I moved on to other things.

Because I had pulled it from the stock a while back, I took the rifle out today, backed off the action screws a little, firmed them both up and then torqued to 35 inch pounds. I have no idea what it was torqued to previously. Grabbed some 117 gr Hornady SST factory ammo and headed out back.

Step 1 - Fire 3 rounds at 25 yards from the bench and see if it appears to be grouping somewhere remotely close to the bullseye. This is shooting from a clean bore 1-2-3 without letting the barrel cool.

Good enough
View attachment 3632495

Step 2 - Move back a little ways, turned out to be 160 yards, and fire 2 more rounds from the bench to see if it looks like it's grouping.

Ultra-stable bench for scientific experimentation
View attachment 3632508

2 rounds in about .8 inches (dime) at 160 yards
View attachment 3632511

Step 3 - I need to go adjust the zero and see if I can repeat some consistent groups. That's for another day. Obviously I'm not ready to declare victory just yet.

Could improperly torqued action screws been the problem this whole time and I am just now getting around to fixing it? If so, I'm going to feel pretty silly, but I'll be okay with that if this Model 70 keeps grouping. We'll see.
Hope u figured it out
 
Does that cause a shift going between drastically different temperatures? Is it a wood stock?

Factory 22” lightweight taper barrel with original factory wood stock.

It’s an early 80’s rifle that I bought in 1994. She always shot 1MOA with Hornady 150grn spire points, but after a few years she started stringing groups up and to the right. The wood stock had shifted/warped and was applying uneven pressure.

I had the barrel crowned, the action bedded, and the barrel channel opened up with a 1” pressure pad bedded at the tip. I also had the stock shortened and a Pachmayr Decelerator added to bring her back to the original LOP.

Not only did she go back to shooting groups, they were a bit tighter than they had been before the stringing.

The next year I switched to Georgia Arms 165grn NBT’s and what a difference! The first 3 rounds go in a group I can cover with my index fingernail. If I’m shooting at a fairly steady pace, and not letting that skinny little barrel cool down, rounds 4 and 5 will open the group slightly, but the entirety is still smaller than a nickel. I would say the first 3 go into .5MOA, with the last 2 rounds opening it to .75MOA.

For a fairly stock, 40 year old, lightweight hunting rifle, with hunting ammo, I’ll take it!
 
Factory 22” lightweight taper barrel with original factory wood stock.

It’s an early 80’s rifle that I bought in 1994. She always shot 1MOA with Hornady 150grn spire points, but after a few years she started stringing groups up and to the right. The wood stock had shifted/warped and was applying uneven pressure.

I had the barrel crowned, the action bedded, and the barrel channel opened up with a 1” pressure pad bedded at the tip. I also had the stock shortened and a Pachmayr Decelerator added to bring her back to the original LOP.

Not only did she go back to shooting groups, they were a bit tighter than they had been before the stringing.

The next year I switched to Georgia Arms 165grn NBT’s and what a difference! The first 3 rounds go in a group I can cover with my index fingernail. If I’m shooting at a fairly steady pace, and not letting that skinny little barrel cool down, rounds 4 and 5 will open the group slightly, but the entirety is still smaller than a nickel. I would say the first 3 go into .5MOA, with the last 2 rounds opening it to .75MOA.

For a fairly stock, 40 year old, lightweight hunting rifle, with hunting ammo, I’ll take it!
Can't argue with results.
 
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