I didn't pull out the volt meter, I just used the crafty tongue meter and it feels like a full charge....If you have a voltmeter, check the battery voltage. It should be 9.6 volts, on a 9v battery.
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I didn't pull out the volt meter, I just used the crafty tongue meter and it feels like a full charge....If you have a voltmeter, check the battery voltage. It should be 9.6 volts, on a 9v battery.
Negative...I took the lock off the front bolts it hangs on to check it out.
Yes sorry, I took the keypad off. I will text you some pics when I get home from work. I appreciate it.The keypad? (The lock is inside the safe) text me some photos of what you’re talking about.
Thats why I hate all that electronic chinese mumbo jumbo crap. Id like to find a smart phone with a rotary dial on it And new Smith and Wesson revolvers with no locks.
Sir, if changing the keypad would open the lock, burglars would have a field day. No one is dumb enough to design one that way; the brains are INSIDE the safe.
Replace it with the American Security digital lock; it's more reliable than a mechanical, based on service call rates. Find the AmSec safe thread over at AR15.com in the Armory if you want an education. When my S&G got flaky, that's what I did. Took only a few minutes to swap; works great.
The S&Gs of a certain vintage are known to have problems. Probably cheap Chinese capacitors, as they fail in a few years (which is why your DVD player etc. died after five years), but I'm speculating.
I have helped twice as many members with serious dial issues as I have with serious E-lock problems.
He has a dead keypad, swapping it should at least open it (with his safes existing code) FYI his issue is a notorious Amsec issue, I love the lock but their keypads constantly take ****, I have 3-4 spare Amsec keypads.
S&G has had some issues, i personal like their newer stuff.