Pretty sure they have a trans cooler from the factory. I know ours did, but it was 2005.If you tow a lot, a transmission cooler might be considered.
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Pretty sure they have a trans cooler from the factory. I know ours did, but it was 2005.If you tow a lot, a transmission cooler might be considered.
2005 was the 6.0 engine and different trans totally different beast.Pretty sure they have a trans cooler from the factory. I know ours did, but it was 2005.
Dang man, Great info! Thanks!!!Buy a spare CPS and carry it in the glove box with a wrench. They're a known issue and prone to giving up at the most inopportune times, which leaves you stranded. Simple fix to swap out if you have one with you. Google it, lots of info.
Fuel additives; low-sulfur diesel doesn't have the lubricating properties of the older diesel, a good fuel additive like "Diesel Kleen" will help with mileage and quiet down the injector cackle.
Pay attention to coolant and SCA; 7.3s are prone to cavitation issues and need the proper coolant with additives.
Fuel bowl drain, yellow lever on back of fuel bowl, is prone to leaking. Check it periodically.
Windshields are prone to leaking on that body style, "wet cat" smell and damp floor will clue you in, hard to nail down if you don't know about it.
Ford has a "severe duty" filter box & kit to increase available air with a bigger filter, fairly inexpensive as far as filter kits and works great.
Front hubs/unit bearings are a POS, as are ball joints. Dynatrac and SpynTec make a conversion kit for hubs/unit bearings, I've used the SpynTec and loved it. Pricey but eliminates a weak link. Ball joints, just expect to change them, big tires kill them faster.
Steering gear box is prone to wearing in center giving vague, wandering feel to steering. Look at a Red Head steering box if you need to change it.
I'll second the other posts on transmission, it can't handle heat. Tow with OD off if heavy, feels like it's lugging or starts hunting gears. Use temp gauge. Look into a John Wood valve body if you want a simple but effective upgrade to a stock trans.
Plug it in when it's below about 40, much easier on starter, batteries, and the neighbors when it's cold out. Doesn't have to stay plugged in all night, usually 30 minutes will do it but either way, it'll be happier if you do.
Stay on top of filters and fluids, unless running a bypass filter or lift pump kit, keep your service interval short. Filters are cheap compared to injectors and engines. Don't use cheap filters! I stick with Motorcraft, AC Delco, CAT, etc.
Love the RanchHand bumpers, have had one on a K2500 for about 20 years, paid for itself many times saving me from suicidal deer. They're heavy, but bomb proof.
Research the ".25 cent mod" for 7.3s, deals with UVCH, another known issue.
Love the 7.3s, taken care of, you'll have a great rig. Not a tire smoking 1,000 ft lb engine, but will chug along all day and be happy doing it. Keep speed below 70 and drive like an egg is under the throttle and you can get decent mileage as well.
Fuel additives; low-sulfur diesel doesn't have the lubricating properties of the older diesel, a good fuel additive like "Diesel Kleen" will help with mileage and quiet down the injector cackle.