Dreaded kimber question.

[Boz1911]

I looked up the sti video and another video from here: http://gunbot.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/tuning-your-1911-extractor/
the case was dropping out. I adjusted it with the method shown on sti and the other link i posted and it does have friction going in. For a factory extractor, it sure was hard to bend. There's a tool that I'm going to order to do it properly.

Nothing wrong with the tension adjustment tool. I know for a fact some of the finest gunsmiths in the country use one. I'm so used to what mine "should" feel like when I install it I can tell when it needs to be tweeked. Having seen many extractors break during competitions it's one item I have a spare ready to go.
Back to my orginal grip suggestions, the higher you can grip the 1911 (or any handgun) the better off you'll be. Aligning that barrel with your forearms will tame a whole bunch of recoil, allowing you to get the following shot on target much quicker. In USPSA we shoot two rounds at every paper target. Newbies tend to think we just pull the trigger twice as fast as we can. Nothing could be further from the truth, the second shot is an aimed shot, we see the sights and shoot accordingly. Proper grip is extremely important to be able to do that.

 

[littleitaly]

I have the ultra carry which is one of kimbers 9mm 1911s and i had more than 2 per 50 at first. After some breaking in, I havent had a single malfunction/feeding issue in over 1500 rounds.

 

[devin25gun]

Have never had a issue out of any kimber I have owned. Have shot cheap ammo steel cased reloads and my 460 rowland kit. Either u get a good one or have a issue. Usually always human error from what I've found. I buy guns all the time from people that say that they ftf or fte and its usually from people disassembling and reassembling incorrectly or magazine feeding issues.

 

[DaveTheMinion]

Quick question. After some thinking I'm almost certain it was due to a weak round. If the round would have come back far enough to hit the EJECTOR, as weak as the round was, it would have been sideways in the ejection port, correct?, If the extractor would have let go of the round, it would have had a stovepipe, correct? What I'm guessing is that the round came back without enough force, either due to lightly loaded or limp wristing, and as the next round in the magazine came up, it ramped up the casing causing it to slam into the barrel. Considering I used what is basically cheap reload ammo (independance), would your verdict be ammo/limp wristing?

 

[Lineman73]

First question is: Did you clean it before you went to the range?
Next question: What kind of ammo were you shooting?

I suggest a good, detailed cleaning and feeding it quality ammo. I have a Kimber Custom Stainless II that has never had a failure of any type. I feed it PMC or American Eagle 230 gr FMJ at the range and Hornady Critical Defense for carry. It eats that stuff up like candy. It did hesitate to feed some Atlanta Arms & Ammo reloads once and I never used that stuff again.

Treat your Kimber nice and it will be nice to you.

 

[mgonza]

Kimbers are sweet. Only 1911 I buy...

 

[LoneOak]

Use LOTS & LOTS & LOTS of a high quality lube for at least the first 500 rnds. Then did I happen to say keep it sloppy wet with a quality lube till it gets broke in and hold on tight!

 

[LoneOak]

Kimbers are sweet. Only 1911 I buy...

You can keep your Kimbers, they are good guns, but no way what so ever would I trade one of my Dan Wessons for even the highest priced Kimber. That latest new model from Kimber, it may be Ultra Carry are something similar, is nearly a direct copy of a Dan Wesson Guardian and the new ECO combined, it is built in a factory and touched by lots of folks before it gets shipped out. The Dan Wesson is built in a smaller factory and only gets touched by 1 or 2 dedicated gunsmiths during the build. I have 4 consecutive year Dan Wessons and the spent case envelope for each one is signed by the same guy, you would never get that from a large factory like Kimber. i like the personal touch and pride of the DW built 1911.