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Dreaded kimber question.

I copied this from the forum about Wilson Combat break-in.

Originally Posted by WilsonCombatRep
We recommend you do a few things prior to shooting

1) Watch the videos and read all instructional information
2) load your magazines several times and then keep them loaded so the xtra power springs take the appropriate set.
3) Buy 3-500 rounds of quality hardball or load an appropriate amount of good reloads.

To break in

1) Make sure your pistol is well lubed
2) Shoot a few hundred rounds (300-500) through it prior to a thorough cleaning. (The slurry of the oil and unburnt powder burnishes the Armor-Tuffed mating surfaces and will give your pistol a glassy smoothness that our guns are noted for.)
3) if you have a malfunction, note which magazine and keep track.
4) Clean at 300-500 rounds If all goes as planned, lightly lubricate and enjoy your new pistol.

What they are saying there is that you are going to do what is called fire lapping for us instead of us hand lapping the fit, you are going to fire lap it.
 
I have a Les Baer that had FTF issues right out of the box. Called Baer and they told me to put 500 rounds thru it and DO NOT clean it. It now has 5,000, read FIVE THOUSAND, (old english) rounds throught it with no issues.

I have a Wilson CQB with about 500 thru it and had 5 FTF's so far. Wilson says to finish the break in.

I have a Kimber Team Match that had roughly a dozen stove pipes in the first 500 rounds. It now has just under 10,000 ten thousand - old english) thru it and has not had one issue since. And all the MIM parst are still in one piece and functioning.

But it looks like meatwadttm has found his problem. A loose extractor will cause all kinds of feed issues. I don't care what brand 1911.
 
What they are saying there is that you are going to do what is called fire lapping for us instead of us hand lapping the fit, you are going to fire lap it.


Call it fire lapping or break in, if it needed lapped they should lap it. I don't have a problem breaking in a $2000.00 gun I'm just saying that tight fit guns need to be shot to break them in correctly. The more you shoot them the better they feel and run.
 
I did notice my extractor was very loose. I did the youtube method of tuning it, but need someone more experienced to show me exactly how to do it. looks simple enough as far as the casing tests go.

Loose how? Hard to do gunsmithing on the computer, but there should be no "looseness". Remember that extractor has to fit in the groove of the case with enough bite to stay in contact with case until the case hits the ejector. The case tests are a good start. I use Aftec extractors and they are hard as nails so I know it only takes a little adjustment (lots of force) to adjust it. Standard extractors are pretty easy to "bend" too far. The extractor should have resistance when you install it in the slide, if not it's basically too straight. Sorta a poor way to describe it, but if it just falls into the slide it needs adjusment.
 
Loose how? Hard to do gunsmithing on the computer, but there should be no "looseness". Remember that extractor has to fit in the groove of the case with enough bite to stay in contact with case until the case hits the ejector. The case tests are a good start. I use Aftec extractors and they are hard as nails so I know it only takes a little adjustment (lots of force) to adjust it. Standard extractors are pretty easy to "bend" too far. The extractor should have resistance when you install it in the slide, if not it's basically too straight. Sorta a poor way to describe it, but if it just falls into the slide it needs adjusment.

I looked up the sti video and another video from here: http://gunbot.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/tuning-your-1911-extractor/
the case was dropping out. I adjusted it with the method shown on sti and the other link i posted and it does have friction going in. For a factory extractor, it sure was hard to bend. There's a tool that I'm going to order to do it properly.
 
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