For those that are just joining this thread, here’s a really short little recap of everything Greg has told us so far....
I am not the only builder on here. I appreciate it but I digress.
If you are referring to the accuracy aspect of the barrel then hell yes. I did do a build with a 250 dollar barrel but I haven't tested it yet. I will give a range report with pics of targets here in the next couple of weeks. I am waiting on a one piece mount for the scope and then it's off to the range. I will keep you posted.
I mainly used that barrel to see if it lived up to all the hype. The rest of the build is the same as I do all my builds. It's just the barrel that needs testing. I can swap out a barrel real quick if I need to so the range will determine whether it's a keeper or if a replacement is in order. Then it's straight to Rainier Arms if not. Sounds about right to me. Excellent question. NEXT!
You will have to try it and see. The F marked front sight base is a tad taller .625 inches made to match the mil spec rear sight on the flat top upper. I am not sure about the height of the rear site made by Sig. Sorry that's all I got.
None! Contrast in color is the only function it serves. I does save a few ounces, almost a half a pound.
My next 5.56 build is going to get a 18" stainless steel hammer forged barrel from Daniel Defense. $430 bucks. Is Daniel Defense worth it?
I don't dabble in AR pistols but I would imagine a H2 to start with. I am not sure how the dynamics of the short barrel and pressure build up at the muzzle as to how that effects gas pressure PSI at the bolt so I can't make a educated answer there. With that caliber and such a short gas tube a heavier buffer would be called for. That's just an untested theory but a good place to start. Also I would go with a adj. gas block. That would allow you to tune the pressure as well.
This is true. My bad. Close enough to 400 with shipping to call it 400. Still up there considering a lot of barrels.
I am going to River Bend Gun Club in the next week or so. I can bring a visitor. The catch is it would be on a work day because the weekend it crazy at the beginning of spring. So I guess this would be an open invite. Just one thing. You have to be able to listen to instruction, remember that instruction ( so I don't get reamed by another member ) and live in the Acworth, Kennesaw, Canton area or any other cities close enough to get to 575 and meet on 575 somewhere and I would drive up. Hundreds of acres of nothing but ranges.
This is a bunch of bull crap. Except the last one. My uncle had that happen to him in Vietnam. The bullet went in his shoulder and out of leg. He was standing straight up. Now how does that happen? He told me he saw a lot of weird injuries from friendly fire.
I can't answer that but what you have there is an excellent way to keep boards together until the adhesion of the glue sets.
First question is your gas tube bearing is loose. Second question your carry handle needs lubed. Third question, You are using the wrong bullet weight.
If it's what I am thinking about you have a semi auto BCG instead of a Full auto bolt carrier.
Membership is not bad. It's 900 bucks initial payment. Then 300 bucks a years. That's for a 100,200,300 and 600 yard ranges. A 22 plinking range you can shoot what you want except glass. A complete wester town front with pistol ranges behind all eight swinging doors. ( it's where they hold the national six gun competition every year. ) They also have timed action pistol ranges. Have places to shoot steel plates and steel shaped bowlin pins to drop. The they have shotgun hill to do skeet and trap. Also have clay throwers in the woods for life like hunting situations. Pretty much everything a shooter would want. Also full archery range.
If that is not enough they have rimfire matches all the time, 3 gun tournaments plus shooting events I can't even remember them all. You can even take a camper up their and set it up and stay a couple days if you want. Also they have a full kitchen Recreation center open to every member. All you have to do is clean up after yourself. That includes a pavilion attached to it. There is more but it's basically 450 acres of shooting fun. Compared to what you spend around here it's a steal.
First one I have seen since I don't have a FFL but it looks like that BCG you showed was a Colt half moon bolt and this pic is a old fully auto mechanism. Don't hold me to that. I have never had the pleasure of seeing one. I build modern sporting rifles. I no historian and I don't mess with full auto guns.
Have you ever been? You can tag along one day if you want.
The nine hundred is a one time price. As long as you stay a member it's only 300 per year. That's 25 bucks a month. I would eat that up in a two weeks at an indoor range.
I couldn't bring myself to build a 300 dollar AR15. That's just wrong on so many levels. Eugene Stoner would roll over in his grave if he heard such blasphemy in the highest degree.
BangBang why did you get me into this mess? I thought we were cool dude.
I swear you guys act like building AR is some kind of major feat. It's very simple machines. I tend to go and try other parts in my quest for build perfection. Using those parts can be a win or loose situation. What it does do is steer me clear of the junk.
He is an American Staffordshire Terrior. The smile when they pant, even the pits do. My dog and pits so similar most people can't tell the difference. He is a deterrent believe me. Many a mover had me lock him up because they were terrified of him. He has ears he just lays them down in back so you can't see them. Makes him look 4 times more aggressive than he really is.
Oooops! thant previous message was for BangBang. Sorry!
He will knock you down. He weighs in a 92 lbs. and ever get on ya good luck. That boy is strong.
Get a magpul STR or CTR one of their stocks that lock. It's a second lever at the very front apart from the maim adjusting lever that locks down and makes the stock silent. You just have to get the right one. You either have a mil spec buffer tube or a commercial buffer tube. If you get one of these stocks once you make the adjustment you simply lock down that lock lever. You do not have to manually unlock that front lever to move it. The locking lever will automatically unlock when you manipulate the adjusting lever. Again then when you get to the desired position you will have to pull that front lever up to lock it again.
I know what mean I hate that rattle between the stock and buffer tube it makes everything sound sloppy. You can see the locking lever in the very front on the bottom front.Well that starts back when about 10. My father was a Maytag repair man. Sears would send him out on repair calls. He was to big to get behind them so I got back there and did all the work. So I got a lot of mechanical training at 10. He would also have me crawl to the back of the engine on our 71 Cadillac to get to that big 472 cubic inch distributor because he couldn't reach it. I was setting points and changing plugs and setting the timing during the same time. I also had a Yamaha Yz80 I worked on all the time. This was all before I was 11. So since then I pretty much just take it apart and I can instantly know what does what and how it works. The AR platform was so simple I just gave up the grease and gas and started with nice clean rifles to work on. That's been years ago.
BangBang you crack me up. I read this post and laughed for five minutes.
You could use an accu bushing and for the play as far as up and down. Brownells sells little shims specifically made for the front take down pin. Most of the time they are sold out so that should tell you something. I always stipulate that when I am ordering upper and lowers together they check the play at the front take down lug and say if it is excessive they will be getting them right back. Either that or I buy locally so I can check fit. I just don't like it and the fact that they sell " match sets " makes me think their is a reason for them. There is a big stink whether they effect accuracy but if it weren't a problem there would be no such thing as " match sets ".
I don't like slop at all but there is a big argument on whether or not it makes a difference in accuracy. I will not get hooked into that argument again. To me a solid build should be solid and that means no slop anywhere. However there are those out there that don't care about slop. All I know is my bolt guns don't rattle, My lever guns don't rattle and my shotguns don't rattle. Why would I want my AR to rattle.
First off you will need a barrel extension torque tool, a vise, a good torque wrench and a good barrel nut removal tool. The torque tool has a place in one end for a 1/2 inch torque wrench. First you insert the barrel into the receiver, then install the barrel nut, secure the barrel nut with the barrel nut tool. Place the extension torque tool into the upper receiver and torque to spec. That's an over simplification of the process but pretty much sums it up. I am sure there are videos that explain it in length and have hands on video. For some reason my computer won't down load you tube video's or I would have shot you a video link to a install video. torque values range from 100 ft.lbs and up depending on the manufacturer.
From now on each answer will cost 5 US denomination dollars. I do accept PayPal so please feel free to take advantage of this once in a lifetime information thread. LOL
LOL. That dude use to kill me. It was the most boring program but I would sucked it by his calm voice. It was almost comical. My friends and I use to laugh at the program all the time. We use to sit around and drink imitating his voice while telling jokes. We had a ball. Then we all felt bad when he died. That's to bad he was very skillful.
That's been almost 30 years back. Jez I am getting old.
I think it very well could be. I am confident in my craft but I don't about all that. Don't bash him for it because he keeps me laughing.
Social Media is a cruel ***** but it helps to get some comic relief in there with it.
Trigger is bad. Also you need some tacos.
Usually I just make a small mark on the barrel inline with the gas port and then make one on the gas block and let it ride. I have never had a problem using that method. I make a small mark with a pencil right over the port on the gas block. If you get bad results with that then go to a more acccurate and elaborate method. Use calipers to get it dead center. Then I do the same with the barrel. Measure half the barrel width the calipers and make a small mark on the barrel. Once the gas block is installed just line the two marks up. If you are having a problem lining up the gas ports this would be a sure fire way to align the ports. I just center the gas tube by looking down the barrel and it usually works out for me. I haven't had a problem yet. You have actually have square sides so the measuring should be easy. Every thing looks good. Diameter of the gas block is the same as the barrel block seat. Most people just put to much thought into it. Also you want to check the end of the gas tube in the upper receiver to make sure it's straight. Just in case the tube isn't bent or improperly installed.
There is also a quick and easy method that will net you perfect alignment every time. I use to do this when I first started building. Take a piece of string or heavy fishing line and feed it though the barrel port and out the end of the barrel. Then take the other side of the line and feed it through the port in the gas block and out thought the end of the gas tube in the end of the upper reciever. The heavier the finshing line the better. Then align the two and just tighten it down just enough to see if you can put the line through the barrel, gas block and barrel very easily. One you are confident you have good alignment tight the gas block down. Real heavy salt water fishing line works the best. It's almost the diameter of the ports.
These are just a couple ways of making it easy to do and end up with good alignment every time. Lately I just eyeball it and I haven't had a problem over that last 20 builds or so.
JP has good accessories. Nothing wrong with the I got from them. I mainly order their spring sets but they have a lot of the same products everyone else has. You just have to pick and choose like every where else.
Nothing wrong with a clamp on gas block. They use clamp on style gass blocks on piston guns all the time. The one he go looks like it was built like a tank. I wouldn't think twice about using it. There is more of a chance of two little set screws coming loose that four nice size bolts with a little thread locker on them for peace of mind.
People need to understand there more than one way to skin a cat. Do what you got BangBang. You will be just fine.
Usually checking head space is absolutely needed when using a questionable used barrel or BCG. If everything is new head space will be checked at the facility with a BCG that is mil spec. So If your parts are new and of good quality you should have no proboem. As far as ammo I couldn't say one way or another. You can look up load charts on ammo and see which one has the least pressure and use that to adjust you rifle. Military surplus ammo is not going to be the weakest of the bunch. Usually a hunting ammo bragging about accuracy and low recoil will have less pressure than surpluse ammo. Just to be sure look up all the load data charts on all the cartridges you can and that should net you the results you are after. If you are shooting real old ammo I wouldn't use that as a good reference anyway.
You will be fine my friend. Enjoy yourself.
After you get some rounds through her to function test do one thing in the near future. Go out and buy some Federal Premium Gold Medal Match Sierra 168 gr. OTM. That ammo will give you a absolute idea on how accurate your build is going to be. It will get a little more accurate with a little time but that ammo always yields the best result from a off the shelf ammo.
I know there is a lot of opinions on barrel break in but I would at least run a cleaning patch down it a couple times after every 5 to 10 rounds. It would be great if you had copper cleaner but if not just pull the grit and carbon out of it after so many rounds or so with a solvent patch and then run a clean patch with a little oil on it. I had a great barrel maker told me one time to run solvent cloth down the barrel after every 5 rounds until you get two twenty. You will still be sighting it the gun so a few minutes won't be so bad. Then run a patch through the barrel every ten rounds and do that 3 times. According to him that should be sufficient to smooth out the surfaces of the lands.
Seeing that you are running Tulammo I would definitely clean out the barrel ever handful of or so rounds. That crap is dirty and I wouldn't want to take any chances with a new barrel that has never been shot. Shooting it is ok just be vigilant with your cleaning sessions between sets. You don't have to scrub the hell out of it just a solvent patch and then follow it up with a couple of clean patches. Then just run one oiled patch down it to let the oil catch any left over carbon.
Yes it is such a nice place. It's surrounded by all wooded areas so it doesn't look industrial. I was shooing on day out there and bear ran across the range. Talking about brave. All that racket and he just strolled right on across there. Of course everybody stopped shooting immediately and just enjoyed the view. I have seen turkeys on range and deer everywhere. I usually go through the week when it's all to my self. I love it then. Of course there is always one or two rim fire guys shooting setups that cost more than the car the drove in with but they keep to their self mostly. It's just a nice place to get lost for a few hours.
Ok BangBang we are ready for a full range report. I am so exited for him I can't wait to here from him. It's a beautiful day and I know he is just out there blasting away. Alert, Alert, Alert. Rang reported wanted.
Operation range visit sounded like a nice result with no fatalities. Glad everything worked out great. This makes me berry,berry happy!
Yes a good polish wouldn't hurt and the bolt could use a good scrub as well. From this angle it looks like it's has either had a bunch of nasty ammo through it recently. That or the gun hasn't been cleaned real good in a while. It might just the angle of the pic but around the extractor looks like their is a little crust build up. Take a brash brush to that SOM Bi**h and a a gallon of solvent.
I would replace the bolt carrier group, the gas tube and block. That should get you back running again. Those components are inundated with carbon. You probably have limited or low gas pressure to the bolt and the bolt is so gommed up with carbon it just won't cycle properly. If the rifle is still in good condition and will last a good while longer than it's worth a small investment to keep a good rifle going.
If you want to mail me the bolt I will strip it down to bare bones and scrape all the carbon off. That would let me see if I can't get it to break loose and cycle easy again. If you live closer I would just have you drop it off with a new gas tube and gas block and I would replace it for you for nothing. Then see if someone around you can replace the gas tube and gas block. If there is that much carbon on the BCG you can imagine how much is stuck in the gas tube and block.
I am not the only builder on here. I appreciate it but I digress.
If you are referring to the accuracy aspect of the barrel then hell yes. I did do a build with a 250 dollar barrel but I haven't tested it yet. I will give a range report with pics of targets here in the next couple of weeks. I am waiting on a one piece mount for the scope and then it's off to the range. I will keep you posted.
I mainly used that barrel to see if it lived up to all the hype. The rest of the build is the same as I do all my builds. It's just the barrel that needs testing. I can swap out a barrel real quick if I need to so the range will determine whether it's a keeper or if a replacement is in order. Then it's straight to Rainier Arms if not. Sounds about right to me. Excellent question. NEXT!
You will have to try it and see. The F marked front sight base is a tad taller .625 inches made to match the mil spec rear sight on the flat top upper. I am not sure about the height of the rear site made by Sig. Sorry that's all I got.
None! Contrast in color is the only function it serves. I does save a few ounces, almost a half a pound.
My next 5.56 build is going to get a 18" stainless steel hammer forged barrel from Daniel Defense. $430 bucks. Is Daniel Defense worth it?
I don't dabble in AR pistols but I would imagine a H2 to start with. I am not sure how the dynamics of the short barrel and pressure build up at the muzzle as to how that effects gas pressure PSI at the bolt so I can't make a educated answer there. With that caliber and such a short gas tube a heavier buffer would be called for. That's just an untested theory but a good place to start. Also I would go with a adj. gas block. That would allow you to tune the pressure as well.
This is true. My bad. Close enough to 400 with shipping to call it 400. Still up there considering a lot of barrels.
I am going to River Bend Gun Club in the next week or so. I can bring a visitor. The catch is it would be on a work day because the weekend it crazy at the beginning of spring. So I guess this would be an open invite. Just one thing. You have to be able to listen to instruction, remember that instruction ( so I don't get reamed by another member ) and live in the Acworth, Kennesaw, Canton area or any other cities close enough to get to 575 and meet on 575 somewhere and I would drive up. Hundreds of acres of nothing but ranges.
This is a bunch of bull crap. Except the last one. My uncle had that happen to him in Vietnam. The bullet went in his shoulder and out of leg. He was standing straight up. Now how does that happen? He told me he saw a lot of weird injuries from friendly fire.
I can't answer that but what you have there is an excellent way to keep boards together until the adhesion of the glue sets.
First question is your gas tube bearing is loose. Second question your carry handle needs lubed. Third question, You are using the wrong bullet weight.
If it's what I am thinking about you have a semi auto BCG instead of a Full auto bolt carrier.
Membership is not bad. It's 900 bucks initial payment. Then 300 bucks a years. That's for a 100,200,300 and 600 yard ranges. A 22 plinking range you can shoot what you want except glass. A complete wester town front with pistol ranges behind all eight swinging doors. ( it's where they hold the national six gun competition every year. ) They also have timed action pistol ranges. Have places to shoot steel plates and steel shaped bowlin pins to drop. The they have shotgun hill to do skeet and trap. Also have clay throwers in the woods for life like hunting situations. Pretty much everything a shooter would want. Also full archery range.
If that is not enough they have rimfire matches all the time, 3 gun tournaments plus shooting events I can't even remember them all. You can even take a camper up their and set it up and stay a couple days if you want. Also they have a full kitchen Recreation center open to every member. All you have to do is clean up after yourself. That includes a pavilion attached to it. There is more but it's basically 450 acres of shooting fun. Compared to what you spend around here it's a steal.
First one I have seen since I don't have a FFL but it looks like that BCG you showed was a Colt half moon bolt and this pic is a old fully auto mechanism. Don't hold me to that. I have never had the pleasure of seeing one. I build modern sporting rifles. I no historian and I don't mess with full auto guns.
Have you ever been? You can tag along one day if you want.
The nine hundred is a one time price. As long as you stay a member it's only 300 per year. That's 25 bucks a month. I would eat that up in a two weeks at an indoor range.
I couldn't bring myself to build a 300 dollar AR15. That's just wrong on so many levels. Eugene Stoner would roll over in his grave if he heard such blasphemy in the highest degree.
BangBang why did you get me into this mess? I thought we were cool dude.
I swear you guys act like building AR is some kind of major feat. It's very simple machines. I tend to go and try other parts in my quest for build perfection. Using those parts can be a win or loose situation. What it does do is steer me clear of the junk.
He is an American Staffordshire Terrior. The smile when they pant, even the pits do. My dog and pits so similar most people can't tell the difference. He is a deterrent believe me. Many a mover had me lock him up because they were terrified of him. He has ears he just lays them down in back so you can't see them. Makes him look 4 times more aggressive than he really is.
Oooops! thant previous message was for BangBang. Sorry!
He will knock you down. He weighs in a 92 lbs. and ever get on ya good luck. That boy is strong.
Get a magpul STR or CTR one of their stocks that lock. It's a second lever at the very front apart from the maim adjusting lever that locks down and makes the stock silent. You just have to get the right one. You either have a mil spec buffer tube or a commercial buffer tube. If you get one of these stocks once you make the adjustment you simply lock down that lock lever. You do not have to manually unlock that front lever to move it. The locking lever will automatically unlock when you manipulate the adjusting lever. Again then when you get to the desired position you will have to pull that front lever up to lock it again.
I know what mean I hate that rattle between the stock and buffer tube it makes everything sound sloppy. You can see the locking lever in the very front on the bottom front.Well that starts back when about 10. My father was a Maytag repair man. Sears would send him out on repair calls. He was to big to get behind them so I got back there and did all the work. So I got a lot of mechanical training at 10. He would also have me crawl to the back of the engine on our 71 Cadillac to get to that big 472 cubic inch distributor because he couldn't reach it. I was setting points and changing plugs and setting the timing during the same time. I also had a Yamaha Yz80 I worked on all the time. This was all before I was 11. So since then I pretty much just take it apart and I can instantly know what does what and how it works. The AR platform was so simple I just gave up the grease and gas and started with nice clean rifles to work on. That's been years ago.
BangBang you crack me up. I read this post and laughed for five minutes.
You could use an accu bushing and for the play as far as up and down. Brownells sells little shims specifically made for the front take down pin. Most of the time they are sold out so that should tell you something. I always stipulate that when I am ordering upper and lowers together they check the play at the front take down lug and say if it is excessive they will be getting them right back. Either that or I buy locally so I can check fit. I just don't like it and the fact that they sell " match sets " makes me think their is a reason for them. There is a big stink whether they effect accuracy but if it weren't a problem there would be no such thing as " match sets ".
I don't like slop at all but there is a big argument on whether or not it makes a difference in accuracy. I will not get hooked into that argument again. To me a solid build should be solid and that means no slop anywhere. However there are those out there that don't care about slop. All I know is my bolt guns don't rattle, My lever guns don't rattle and my shotguns don't rattle. Why would I want my AR to rattle.
First off you will need a barrel extension torque tool, a vise, a good torque wrench and a good barrel nut removal tool. The torque tool has a place in one end for a 1/2 inch torque wrench. First you insert the barrel into the receiver, then install the barrel nut, secure the barrel nut with the barrel nut tool. Place the extension torque tool into the upper receiver and torque to spec. That's an over simplification of the process but pretty much sums it up. I am sure there are videos that explain it in length and have hands on video. For some reason my computer won't down load you tube video's or I would have shot you a video link to a install video. torque values range from 100 ft.lbs and up depending on the manufacturer.
From now on each answer will cost 5 US denomination dollars. I do accept PayPal so please feel free to take advantage of this once in a lifetime information thread. LOL
LOL. That dude use to kill me. It was the most boring program but I would sucked it by his calm voice. It was almost comical. My friends and I use to laugh at the program all the time. We use to sit around and drink imitating his voice while telling jokes. We had a ball. Then we all felt bad when he died. That's to bad he was very skillful.
That's been almost 30 years back. Jez I am getting old.
I think it very well could be. I am confident in my craft but I don't about all that. Don't bash him for it because he keeps me laughing.
Social Media is a cruel ***** but it helps to get some comic relief in there with it.
Trigger is bad. Also you need some tacos.
Usually I just make a small mark on the barrel inline with the gas port and then make one on the gas block and let it ride. I have never had a problem using that method. I make a small mark with a pencil right over the port on the gas block. If you get bad results with that then go to a more acccurate and elaborate method. Use calipers to get it dead center. Then I do the same with the barrel. Measure half the barrel width the calipers and make a small mark on the barrel. Once the gas block is installed just line the two marks up. If you are having a problem lining up the gas ports this would be a sure fire way to align the ports. I just center the gas tube by looking down the barrel and it usually works out for me. I haven't had a problem yet. You have actually have square sides so the measuring should be easy. Every thing looks good. Diameter of the gas block is the same as the barrel block seat. Most people just put to much thought into it. Also you want to check the end of the gas tube in the upper receiver to make sure it's straight. Just in case the tube isn't bent or improperly installed.
There is also a quick and easy method that will net you perfect alignment every time. I use to do this when I first started building. Take a piece of string or heavy fishing line and feed it though the barrel port and out the end of the barrel. Then take the other side of the line and feed it through the port in the gas block and out thought the end of the gas tube in the end of the upper reciever. The heavier the finshing line the better. Then align the two and just tighten it down just enough to see if you can put the line through the barrel, gas block and barrel very easily. One you are confident you have good alignment tight the gas block down. Real heavy salt water fishing line works the best. It's almost the diameter of the ports.
These are just a couple ways of making it easy to do and end up with good alignment every time. Lately I just eyeball it and I haven't had a problem over that last 20 builds or so.
JP has good accessories. Nothing wrong with the I got from them. I mainly order their spring sets but they have a lot of the same products everyone else has. You just have to pick and choose like every where else.
Nothing wrong with a clamp on gas block. They use clamp on style gass blocks on piston guns all the time. The one he go looks like it was built like a tank. I wouldn't think twice about using it. There is more of a chance of two little set screws coming loose that four nice size bolts with a little thread locker on them for peace of mind.
People need to understand there more than one way to skin a cat. Do what you got BangBang. You will be just fine.
Usually checking head space is absolutely needed when using a questionable used barrel or BCG. If everything is new head space will be checked at the facility with a BCG that is mil spec. So If your parts are new and of good quality you should have no proboem. As far as ammo I couldn't say one way or another. You can look up load charts on ammo and see which one has the least pressure and use that to adjust you rifle. Military surplus ammo is not going to be the weakest of the bunch. Usually a hunting ammo bragging about accuracy and low recoil will have less pressure than surpluse ammo. Just to be sure look up all the load data charts on all the cartridges you can and that should net you the results you are after. If you are shooting real old ammo I wouldn't use that as a good reference anyway.
You will be fine my friend. Enjoy yourself.
After you get some rounds through her to function test do one thing in the near future. Go out and buy some Federal Premium Gold Medal Match Sierra 168 gr. OTM. That ammo will give you a absolute idea on how accurate your build is going to be. It will get a little more accurate with a little time but that ammo always yields the best result from a off the shelf ammo.
I know there is a lot of opinions on barrel break in but I would at least run a cleaning patch down it a couple times after every 5 to 10 rounds. It would be great if you had copper cleaner but if not just pull the grit and carbon out of it after so many rounds or so with a solvent patch and then run a clean patch with a little oil on it. I had a great barrel maker told me one time to run solvent cloth down the barrel after every 5 rounds until you get two twenty. You will still be sighting it the gun so a few minutes won't be so bad. Then run a patch through the barrel every ten rounds and do that 3 times. According to him that should be sufficient to smooth out the surfaces of the lands.
Seeing that you are running Tulammo I would definitely clean out the barrel ever handful of or so rounds. That crap is dirty and I wouldn't want to take any chances with a new barrel that has never been shot. Shooting it is ok just be vigilant with your cleaning sessions between sets. You don't have to scrub the hell out of it just a solvent patch and then follow it up with a couple of clean patches. Then just run one oiled patch down it to let the oil catch any left over carbon.
Yes it is such a nice place. It's surrounded by all wooded areas so it doesn't look industrial. I was shooing on day out there and bear ran across the range. Talking about brave. All that racket and he just strolled right on across there. Of course everybody stopped shooting immediately and just enjoyed the view. I have seen turkeys on range and deer everywhere. I usually go through the week when it's all to my self. I love it then. Of course there is always one or two rim fire guys shooting setups that cost more than the car the drove in with but they keep to their self mostly. It's just a nice place to get lost for a few hours.
Ok BangBang we are ready for a full range report. I am so exited for him I can't wait to here from him. It's a beautiful day and I know he is just out there blasting away. Alert, Alert, Alert. Rang reported wanted.
Operation range visit sounded like a nice result with no fatalities. Glad everything worked out great. This makes me berry,berry happy!
Yes a good polish wouldn't hurt and the bolt could use a good scrub as well. From this angle it looks like it's has either had a bunch of nasty ammo through it recently. That or the gun hasn't been cleaned real good in a while. It might just the angle of the pic but around the extractor looks like their is a little crust build up. Take a brash brush to that SOM Bi**h and a a gallon of solvent.
I would replace the bolt carrier group, the gas tube and block. That should get you back running again. Those components are inundated with carbon. You probably have limited or low gas pressure to the bolt and the bolt is so gommed up with carbon it just won't cycle properly. If the rifle is still in good condition and will last a good while longer than it's worth a small investment to keep a good rifle going.
If you want to mail me the bolt I will strip it down to bare bones and scrape all the carbon off. That would let me see if I can't get it to break loose and cycle easy again. If you live closer I would just have you drop it off with a new gas tube and gas block and I would replace it for you for nothing. Then see if someone around you can replace the gas tube and gas block. If there is that much carbon on the BCG you can imagine how much is stuck in the gas tube and block.
