The biggest difference (assuming matching loads) will be your firearm/barrel vs. the one they tested. I wouldn't expect a match. And I wouldn't expect their load to necessarily be the most accurate for your firearm.
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Good As Factory?
- Thread starter No2sc2
- Start date
The biggest difference (assuming matching loads) will be your firearm/barrel vs. the one they tested. I wouldn't expect a match. And I wouldn't expect their load to necessarily be the most accurate for your firearm.
You can use their data, and you might get lucky matching their performance, but generally, it's not that simple. Unless you are using the same brand (and even batch) of primers, the burning rate will be altered by the intensity of the primer ignition. The pressure curve is significantly impacted by neck tension; the pressure curve + the length of your barrel will impact muzzle velocity. Are you using the same brass as Lehigh? That might also make a difference, as there can be volume differences from one maker to the next.
This is why you have to work up a load. For a high performance rifle round, it's particularly important. It's not like you're assembling some 9mm plinkers, and you're happy if the rounds tear out a nice group near the center of a target you just shot offhand.
You may find, with your specific loadings, the powder has to go up or down by a grain or two. You've got a chrono, so you can get there. But you probably won't get there by accident, with just the first few loads. Using a cheap bullet of similar weight and profile will allow you to get close, and then you can perfect it with the expensive bullets.
Yeah I understand rifle, barrel, primer, and whole bunch of other factors come into play but I figured that rule applies to any factory loads that's sold out there. I don't think Legigh published what brand primer they used. However, they tested on same length and twist rate as mine. So hopefully I can start with 2-3 rounds of their "factory" data and go from there? i know primer has big play in the ignition and pressure but most manufacturerr don't ever publish their primer brand.
Definitely will try with a few of similiar cheaper bullets of the same weight. That's just one issue! I'll have to work it to where they are stablized too for suppressor use. Been dying to go hunting but not going till I perfect the round!
Definitely will try with a few of similiar cheaper bullets of the same weight. That's just one issue! I'll have to work it to where they are stablized too for suppressor use. Been dying to go hunting but not going till I perfect the round!
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I am with the other guys here.
You can reload a better ammunition FOR YOUR GUN(s) than a factory round.
First Lehigh has in every test that I have seen done was at the very top in performance.
that being said If you look at the factories while they do want to produce a good bullet if one powder is say 1/10 of a cent less than a slightly better powder then they may tend to go with the some what cheaper powder.
you consider the number of rounds turned out by a ammo factory each month/year and any small savings add up big time.
so as mentioned I wouldn't try to match the factory loads, I would work up loads in my weapons and try to improve the factory loads.
the problem that I see with getting a 20 cent projectiles to work up Lehigh loads are the Lehigh projectiles are all copper I believe, that's a totally different animal to load than jacketed or lead/ plated projectiles .
so I doubt that you would get much of an actual performance test.
just my thoughts.
You can reload a better ammunition FOR YOUR GUN(s) than a factory round.
First Lehigh has in every test that I have seen done was at the very top in performance.
that being said If you look at the factories while they do want to produce a good bullet if one powder is say 1/10 of a cent less than a slightly better powder then they may tend to go with the some what cheaper powder.
you consider the number of rounds turned out by a ammo factory each month/year and any small savings add up big time.
so as mentioned I wouldn't try to match the factory loads, I would work up loads in my weapons and try to improve the factory loads.
the problem that I see with getting a 20 cent projectiles to work up Lehigh loads are the Lehigh projectiles are all copper I believe, that's a totally different animal to load than jacketed or lead/ plated projectiles .
so I doubt that you would get much of an actual performance test.
just my thoughts.
If he can find a bullet that has a similar profile and weight, he should be able to tweak a load and get close. There's still no substitute for the actual bullet, regardless of metallurgy, but a lot of other variables can be approximated. I've used a similar process with 308 cast/gas checked bullets and premium hunting bullets.
Right, that rule does apply to all factory loads, which is why hand loaders work up loads: To try and account for differences in components, barrels, chamber dimensions, etc.
IMHO, the key parameter you specified: You want to minimize the number of expensive projectiles you shoot while seeking to match factory performance. I'm saying there is an imperfect-but-still-valuable shortcut vs. shooting the Lehigh bullets in your testing.
Yeah I'll probably go with your advice. Pick up some cheaper 200gr and go from there. I know it won't yield same but it'll give me an idea of whats going on with FPS and pressures.
Tell me again why you're dead-set on using those bullets? What round are you loading for? 300BO? I just don't get the need for spending that kind of coin on a bullet. In the end It's just a projectile....and I'm not convinced they're any better than all the other bullets that have been made by the major bullet manufacturers (most of whom have been making and perfecting bullets for the better part of 60+ years).
The amazing expansion under subsonic speeds. There isn't a bullet out there right now that expands under 1800FPS. I need it to go subsonic since suppressor will be used and I need it to expand inside the bacon.
