Stake your AR15 castle nut.

[ASH556]

Guys act like staking is irreversible. It's actually very easy to push through when putting force on the nut. The great thing, thought, is that the nut never sees any direct force under actual use (assuming it was torqued properly from the get-go). So, staking is enough interference to keep it from vibrating loose under use, but also easily broken when it's time to change parts.

As far as staking messing up the threads, if you do it correctly you never touch them. You're just supposed to push end plate material into the notch of the castle nut; not down into the threads.

 

[Lazarus]

A lot of guys just use a couple drops of BLUE loctite. I prefer staking. My Stag was staked.

 

[mtdawg169]

Yeah, a torch is a much more appropriate tool for firearms. What do you think staking does to the threads when you back it off? Who cares, it's a $20 part...
I guess staking should be required for someone that doesn't know anything about their weapon...

As Ash pointed out, staking poses zero risk to the threads. If you knew what you were talking about, you'd know that. And you'd know that it is actually the method called for in the technical manual. Do you honestly think that it would be the prescribed method for mil armorers if it would cause damage to the receiver extension? Loctite often requires a torch, especially when too much is applied. A torch has no place on your workbench if the gun was assembled correctly in the first place.

 

[albatros43]

While 99% of guys will probably never run an AR hard enough for the castle nut to loosen, why not stake it? It takes about 5 seconds.

 

[cwgibson]

My PSA and Doublestar, factory built lowers are not stalked. ( I'm 99% sure, I have to go to the safe to look.) Anyway go to a gun store and look at rifles, and see how many are stalked.

@ mtdawg169 I have had a few RRA factory built lowers and never ran across one w/ red locktite when I changed the back plate. I'm not sayin' they never did it, I just havent seen it... And I'd be waaay pissed if my RRA LAR-8 had red locktite on the castle nut. ( I'll have to check to see if its stalked, I know its at the front of the gun safe where I can get to it.) But yea, the M4 style rifles should be stalked from the factory.

Good to know, I usually just buy stripped lowers so I don't really know who does what.

 

[Pilgrim9283]

I like steak, i mean stake....LOL whenever I put together a new lower, staking is part of my build process. It is the correct way to do it. Not a knock on people that don't simply in my experience it is one less thing to think about.

 

[Wallace's]

While 99% of guys will probably never run an AR hard enough for the castle nut to loosen, why not stake it? It takes about 5 seconds.

Not with my auto punch. Try a minute or two if staking a QD mount....

 

[Cobalt 60]

For those staking, do you prefer a hammer and punch or a spring loaded center punch?

 

[Wallace's]

Yeah, a torch is a much more appropriate tool for firearms. What do you think staking does to the threads when you back it off? Who cares, it's a $20 part...
I guess staking should be required for someone that doesn't know anything about their weapon...

Not sure if serious or sarcasm here?

Staking doesn't hurt threads unless you smash the hell out of a stake tool or go bananas with an auto punch. Basic end plates are just a few bucks. You can stake them twice so it's not a big deal.

As MTdawg said, if your using your rifle for anything more than just a tinker toy, stake the darn thing. If you have an obsession with tearing your rifle apart for new configuration often, then torque to spec and go.

Now for red Loctite, you nearly have to use a torch to break the bond loose. That's why I really don't like using it except on some automotive applications.

 

[Wallace's]

For those staking, do you prefer a hammer and punch or a spring loaded center punch?

Spring loaded auto. Much easier to control and make it look professional.