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Critique my 1st loads please

ddennis

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Hey gang...so I finally took the jump into reloading. Take a look at this pic of my first 9mm load. 1.100 oal, 115g rn, 4.5g of w231, cci small pistol primers. Anything jump out as obvious that I need to correct? I've loaded 10 9mm and 10 .45acp to try out at the range.
I do have a question on the Lee crimp die. I am using it in a hornady lol AP. The crimp die is pretty much screwed in as deep as it can go in the hornady Collett to get it to touch the shell plate....is that normal?

6892256dc3222df12e645aa734fd6181.jpg


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looks good from what I can see.
I will say that I do not crimp my pistol rounds only rifle so I dont know if what you are experiencing is normal or not.

Do you have a gauge to confirm they are go, no go?
If not you can always do the plunk test, field strip a gun and drop the round into the barrel and see how it fits.
Does it go in easy, does it sit flush.

good luck, be safe and enjoy your new hobby.
 
credit where credit is due: the lee factory crimp die is the last word to insure that the ammo will at least feed properly, per factory specs. I do not see a crimp in the photo attached.

many jillions of rounds have been handloaded with stock, properly adjusted, seat-crimp dies, so the use of a factory crimp die is almost a personal preference. It may not do any good, but if everything else is adjusted properly, It will not do any harm either.
 
It looks Ok, even though it appears to have a tiny bit of a bell at the case mouth. As the other guys said, I dont bother with the factory crimp on pistol rounds, except for 357 sig.
Also as previously stated try the round in the chamber.
 
Hey gang...so I finally took the jump into reloading. Take a look at this pic of my first 9mm load. 1.100 oal, 115g rn, 4.5g of w231, cci small pistol primers. Anything jump out as obvious that I need to correct? I've loaded 10 9mm and 10 .45acp to try out at the range.
I do have a question on the Lee crimp die. I am using it in a hornady lol AP. The crimp die is pretty much screwed in as deep as it can go in the hornady Collett to get it to touch the shell plate....is that normal?

6892256dc3222df12e645aa734fd6181.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
You have no crimp on the brass to hold the round. You need a taper crimp die for semi auto pistol because the round head spaces on the case rim. Try loading a mag and chambering rounds by dropping the slide on the rounds from the loaded mag and watch those bullets seat themselves further into the brass.
 
+3 on the taper crimp. Invest in some case gauges, They are around $20-30 for each caliber and will quickly and easily tell you if the case and OAL are within dimensional specification.
 
Stick with the min to mid charge of powder, observe how the crimp impacts your reloads performance. Write it down. Change variables write them down. After more experience, some variables will transfer to other caliber reloads.
 
To each their own but I use the Lee taper crimp on 380, 38 Super, 10 MM, 9 MM, 45 acp and if I had any other bottom feeders in different caliber I would use it on them as well.
I typically use a regular roll crimp on my (wifes ) 38 Spl and my 41 MAG as the projectiles usually have a cannelure in it.
take your thumb to the finished round that you show and see if you can push the projectile back into the case, if it moves any at all then its not proper neck tension and needs more crimp.
 
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