Lastly...you need to shoot some before u make 100. I don't like 1.100. It's a bit short
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
ODT Gun Show & Swap Meet - May 4, 2024! - Click here for info
Critique my 1st loads please
- Thread starter ddennis
- Start date
Thanks...of all places I found it on Craigslist! Got a pretty good deal for a turnkey setup. Was already setup and running .45acp, I picked up some other dies and misc stuff. To run other calibers I have. Hoping to go shoot some loads that I've worked up for my 45 and 9 this week. Wife is scared I'm going to blow my face off lol!!
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Their are so many factors you have to deal with...When you want to develop a load for a specific purpose and result..It takes for me a lot of trial and error..I have been loading for I can't remember how many years. First several scales to cross check and verify. Then to determine what speed and desired result....Then what weight bullet and distance you what to achieve your desired results...Then you have to think about length of barrel which can make a big difference. Also you must have a Chronograph to see the fruits of your labor..It ain't easy or all would do it, I personally record on each box of reloads all the information and results of each load..Good luck be safe and never take anything for granite.
For now I'm sticking to the recipes in the books...and tweaking for accuracy. Once I get a lot more comfortable I'll branch out a bit. And as grey beard suggested...I've only loaded about 10 of each to try and see what it gets me.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
This is where I tell you that your are treading thin ice. OAL you are reading are minimum. You aren't working up your loads and you are not looking for pressure signs. Your wife could be right.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm not suggesting. I'm going to say what works for me is 1.125 and for my specific gun, I work up my loads from minimum charge by .2 increments until I see it cycles well and locks the slide on the last round
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I always used a taper crimp for the 9mm rounds I used to build.
Roll crimp for .38 special and other rimmed revolver rounds, taper crimp for semi-autos that headspace on the case mouth.
Roll crimp for .38 special and other rimmed revolver rounds, taper crimp for semi-autos that headspace on the case mouth.
You skipped the whole chapter on understanding pressure. The more you seat the bullet, the more pressure you add without adding powder.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pick the OAL that feeds best in all your pistols. I cheat a bit and measure a factory round of the same weight and style to use as a reference.
Once you picked the length you want, run the round to the top of the press with the taper crimp die backed out. Then screw it down until it makes contact with the case. Lower the round and turn the die in about a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn in. I settle on a 1/4 or slightly more often. It's just enough taper crimp to prevent bullet set back. This is typically 1/12th increments to find that right spot that allows for small variations of brass/brand in mixed brass.
I test the crimp with about 10 or so finished rounds by chambering them one by one, measuring before and after chambering, observing for any significant setback.
This is the process I use for all my taper crimp pistol ammo.
I have most of the Lee taper crimp dies for nearly every caliber pistol. Combined with the push through bulge buster kit that works with it sizes the entire length of the case. I found that really makes more reliable ammo, specifically 9mm. Due to the taper design of the 9mm, Lee modifies a special request Mak die for this.
Once you picked the length you want, run the round to the top of the press with the taper crimp die backed out. Then screw it down until it makes contact with the case. Lower the round and turn the die in about a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn in. I settle on a 1/4 or slightly more often. It's just enough taper crimp to prevent bullet set back. This is typically 1/12th increments to find that right spot that allows for small variations of brass/brand in mixed brass.
I test the crimp with about 10 or so finished rounds by chambering them one by one, measuring before and after chambering, observing for any significant setback.
This is the process I use for all my taper crimp pistol ammo.
I have most of the Lee taper crimp dies for nearly every caliber pistol. Combined with the push through bulge buster kit that works with it sizes the entire length of the case. I found that really makes more reliable ammo, specifically 9mm. Due to the taper design of the 9mm, Lee modifies a special request Mak die for this.
