Newbie questions

[Chuckdog]

Is the lube just for the resizing part? I am going to do the liquid Birchwood Casey cleaner and I am thinking the process is: Lube, Deprime/Resize, clean, trim, chamfer, prime, charge, seat bullet, and crimp.

Also is Crimping needed on all .308 rounds or just ones that have the groove for it? Better to crimp everything and bee on the safe side?

I don't know about the Birchwood stuff? I can't recommend using anything petroleum based. Petroleum lubes can and will foul powder and primers. Proper case lube is so inexpensive, I'd get something marketed specifically for case lube. As far as the brass is concerned, case lube will only be required during the resizing process. If you're loading for an autoloader, yes I'd crimp them all. If it's for a bolt, slide, or single shot it's optional. Some believe in it some don't. I use both. Most bullets without a cannelure recommend not crimping, if you do choose to crimp bullets without the cannelure I'd recommend use of a Lee Factory Crimp die as it's easy to apply a very light crimp after the fact.

 

[bwsmith]

No, the Birchwood is brass case cleaner, not lube. I have the Lee lube that came with the kit. I am not using anything out of its marketed use. But while on that subject, do you lube the neck of the case as well? I have seen differing information online. Some say don't lube the neck, some say do, and some say to lube the inside of the neck as well.

 

[Going Postal]

Here is something that might help you understand the Lee cutter and lock stud usage:

There are two types of cutters, one with wooded ball and one without. I will use the one with the ball to demonstrate:



Here is a picture of the parts of the Lee cutter with a piece of brass, when you buy a new length gauge, it comes with the proper shell holder as mentioned by rbstern (he did a great job explaining it but a visual always helps)



Here is a picture of the lock stud with a shell holder partially screwed down:



Here is a picture of the guide rod (length gauge) screwed into the cutter:



And finally once you have the piece of brass in the shell holder and screwed down as far as you can get it, insert the guide rod into the de-primed piece of brass and turn the cutter until it is no longer shaving brass of the case.


Once it is cut to length, you deburr and champher the mouth of the brass and you are ready to load it. I hope this little pictorial piece helps you with the Lee cutter and lock stud use.

 

[fuelman1]

Go to Lee's website and watch some of their tutorial videos and it will explain alot about the use of their equipment. Youtube also has lots of videos of different aspects of reloading. It will help you see what the processes are rather than try to visualize.

 

[Chuckdog]

No, the Birchwood is brass case cleaner, not lube. I have the Lee lube that came with the kit. I am not using anything out of its marketed use. But while on that subject, do you lube the neck of the case as well? I have seen differing information online. Some say don't lube the neck, some say do, and some say to lube the inside of the neck as well.

Yes, use a very small amount on the outside neck. Try not to get too much on the shoulder of the case either. A small amount of lube is good. Too much lube can cause dents in the case. A little goes a long way. I use a nylon brush that I roll on my case lube pad occasionally to lube the inside area of the case neck. Dies with expander balls will work much better, and it will cause a lot less stress on the brass, dies, and your arm. Some types of lube are more prone than others to cause case dents. The Lee has always been very forgiving, the Unique I now use is too. I don't remember having any issues with either. The old RCBS lube would cause dents if you got carried away with it.